Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize
The Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize is an award for emerging talent in fashion and couture. The final was held on Tuesday evening at the prestigious Plaza Athénée, in the heart of the Golden Triangle.
5 designers were vying for victory. Jury members included Alexandra Golovanoff, Nathalie Rykiel, Kenzo Takada and Chantal Thomass, and the choice of winner was a tough one, if the opening speech by Dorchester Collection CEO Christopher Cowdray is anything to go by.
First in line was IRM design, which is actually the duo Marion Lalanne and Pierre Alexis Hermet. Five looks, lots of white and geometry. A huge gold belt marked out the waist, transparency and drapes were the order of the day. Shape of the season: peplum skirts and blazers, high collars reminiscent of religious dress.
Augustin Teboul took to the catwalk, fusing the Franco-German duo Odélie Teboul and Annelie Augustin to present a couture collection. Black, majestic, volumes and pearls are the direction chosen by the two designers. The dress closing the show reminds me of Élie Saab.
Les Garçons Paris, the only menswear representatives, were the third to stop by. The Louis Gérin-Gregory Lamaud duo chose to show us a very wearable collection, with a mix of navy blue and black materials. No frills or glitz, just finesse and poetry. Beautiful cuts, a killer detail: leather suspenders worn over pants, in dandy-rock fashion, and the closing piece is my favorite: a leather feather jumpsuit, a nod to the black swan.
The presentation of Calla (Calla Haynes) took place to the sound of Genesis by Grimes (closing music by Élie Saab…). Lovely shapes, very flirty and young, with short dresses, tie-dye and prints that we can only criticize for looking a little too much like what we’ve seen at Proenza Schouler.
Quentin Veron’s neo-Victorian universe closed the show. There was no room for color: everything was fur, black, brown and hats. Although the length was rather difficult to wear, the play with volume was nonetheless very interesting.
The winner was Augustin Teboul, who took home €30,000 and the chance to stay at a Dorchester hotel during Milan or Paris Fashion Week in spring 2013.
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
