Since September 20, 2012, Les Arts Décoratifs has been hosting the exhibition Van Cleef & Arpels, l’Art de la Haute Joaillerie. In the nave of the museum, a grandiose space at 107 rue de Rivoli, the Richemont Group house unveils 500 exceptional jewels .
Through a sumptuous retrospective of the jeweler’s finest creations since 1906, you’ll discover the talent of the artisans behind the scenes, the “golden hands”. These artists are the soul of the company, working in secret workshops somewhere near Place Vendôme.
The exhibition, organized by period and highlight from the 1920s to the 2000s, features a delicate, artistic scenography. Created by the Jouin Manku agency, visitors are introduced to the exclusive techniques developed by Van Cleef & Arpels. On playful tables, showcases explain the stages in the creation of some of the jeweler’s unique techniques. There is, for example, an area “dedicated” to the mysterious setting, also known as the “invisible” setting. This technical feat, invented by the Maison in 1933, is perpetuated by a handful of gem-setters, discreet craftsmen and magicians who bring out the best in the precious stones (mainly rubies) they set.
Van Cleef & Arpels is a true style. Sometimes a revolution in the traditional world of haute-joaillerie. With masterpieces recognizable at a glance: chatelaine clip watches, minaudières, supple bracelets, padlock and tourniquet watches, the Zip necklace/bracelet, … These are often unique creations, commissioned by royal highnesses or celebrities, with a single objective: to sublimate the woman. It can take 2 to 3 days to design a piece of jewelry and arrive at the final gouache, which sometimes looks like a photograph, so precise is the line. In fact, Van Cleef & Arpels is recognized as one of the finest jewelers on the Place Vendôme.
In the jeweler’s workshop, each professional masters one or more techniques. In this calm universe, where concentration is the order of the day, each person is responsible for one stage of creation. Sometimes employees of the company for 15, 20 or even 38 years (!), these men and women are the heart of VC&A. These “golden hands” are now in the spotlight, thanks to an innovative digital device: a virtual tour of the Parisian workshops.
Interviewed at the opening of the exhibition, Stanislas de Quercize (CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels) confided that “through Loïc Prigent‘s videos, hands speak for the first time”. Indeed, beyond the 360° tour of the workshops, which is already a unique discovery, his short films unveil 9 personalities representing the Art professions of model making, gem setting, polishing and more. “Stanislas de Quercize explains: “It’s a unique way of sharing French know-how, which still brings together 10,000 people working in 2,900 houses and workshops in France.
While these workshops have been awarded the “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant” label, this is the first time that a Maison de Haute-Joaillerie has opened its doors in this way. Giving young people an inspiration and a chance to discover these models of creativity and knowledge. By opting for a digital, interactive approach, Van Cleef & Arpels is demonstrating its sense of innovation and its desire to pass on its heritage to as many people as possible, especially young people.
2 years ago, the House openedthe “Van Cleef & Arpels School” on Place Vendôme, to introduce students to these exceptional crafts and materials… For the discerning connoisseur, I invite you to take a closer look at their program on their website.
As you can imagine, it’s possible to be one of the most prestigious Haute-Jewellery houses, often perceived as very elitist, and still want to create places where its knowledge can be shared. Van Cleef & Arpels has embraced new media (virtual tour, mobile application, dedicated exhibition website, etc.) to provide access to a secret location, a unique collection and rare expertise.
Jewelry, the art perpetuated with splendor by Van Cleef & Arpels, is above all a story of encounters. The meeting of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef, from which a formidable love was born; the meeting of a jewelry idea with its creator; the meeting of precious materials, gold and stones; the meeting of a House and its employees, becoming a family in its own right; and the meeting of a public with magnificent pieces, always imbued with poetry.
Jessica Gauzi
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
