Boris Bidjan Saberi: the brutality of man.

Boris Bidjan Saberi is known for his dark style, his use of materials and the gothic aura that emanates from his creations, reminiscent of Rick Owens.

The SS 2013 collection presented at the espace des blanc manteaux was no exception, revisiting some sportswear classics in a rather monochrome palette.

The shades were black, gray and white – no great eccentricities for Boris Bidjan Saberi in this respect. The cuts, on the other hand, were a little more interesting.

Long shirts, asymmetrical suits, skinny ties and leather jackets are the order of the day.

The wire-mesh glasses, produced in collaboration with the Linda Farrow brand, and the catwalk instructions given to the models (to look edgy) are there to remind us that this cyber-punk-inspired collection is aimed above all at bad boys.

There’s no room for color or pattern here, and the choice is to return to raw materials and square shapes, which seems to be the designer’s signature. One criticism is that the looks are too uniform and too few in number, perhaps proving that if you try too hard to follow a particular line, you quickly find yourself trapped when inspiration fails.

Mary Yasmine Arrouche