Runway notes: Black and white, Doc Martens in three textures (suede, smooth and textured leather), flat open-toe boots. Straps and bowler hat, almost a Clockwork Orange feel. Tortured and textured cotton. Petite or pregnant models, tattoos. Wedding duo.
Beauty: Limi Feu’s pale angels had halos of hair and short, milky nails.
Inevitable comparisons between her style and that of her father Yohji Yamamoto overshadow Limi Feu’s creative talent, for even if dogs don’t make cats, there remains a fundamental difference between the former’s romantic universe and the latter’s more radical style.
The inseparable pairing of white and black served as a metaphor for another pairing, that of man and woman. Chaplin references could go to hell, as the main inspiration for this collection was likely to be unhappy love affairs, once Billie Holiday’s song I’m a fool to want you started playing.
Behind contrasts like this white dress with its wild lace texture, and the almost closing black and white duet, should we see the reflection of the designer’s troubled marriage, or her desire to say that love should be loved as such, and not conform to a traditional (and perhaps outdated) iconography? Whatever the case, her casting focused on interesting faces and silhouettes, rather than supposed perfection.
Of note: Limi Feu’s divorced parents were in the front row, and The Clothes Whisperer and I got to see Limi’s mom, in kimono and purple hair, shopping afterwards. On the editorial side, Vanessa Feldman and Hilary Alexander wore the same kind of fur vest.
Photos and text by Lily @ www.mademoiselleaparis.com