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OTEYZA Spring/Summer 2021

by pascal iakovou
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PARIS MENSWEAR WEEK

Spring/Summer 2021

ABOUT « ZAGAL »

THE COLLECTION

’ZAGAL’ is an exercise regarding the absorption of matter and form, where its balances have been exploited in order to develop a re-expression of the creation axes.

It is time for truth, honesty, craftsmanship and organicity: OTEYZA sources of creation from its beginnings, in a formulated vision named ‘fashion of knowledge’. In it, the shapes are associated through fertile shapes (mixing pure vegetable textures in linen with extra-fine merino wool), as well as in “geometry of life” (rich in spaces and unlimited perspectives).

A one-way ticket to modernity in a setting of codes from tradition to avant-garde, where the true importance is given to the ‘process and its vital action’.

OTEYZA is nourished by all its internal discourse, from the poise of its lines to the drive and gravity of its textures and colors, thus making an exercise of continuous progression in the vision of the men’s fashion new paradigm: creating with the hands of tomorrow the drive and modernity of today.

Unstructured jackets with geometric lines, trouser skirts, multi-layered frock coats, hats, shirts with raised collars or pleated trench coats…intersect generating wealth and unity in the discourse.

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OTEYZA works space and form in a disjunction of passive and active lines that converge and diverge creating new codes of elegance. It is not about the form, it is about the LIFE that is in it, its process.

As is tradition in the house, cold wool is one of the materials that star in the collection. Extra-thin and unstructured cloths in their patterns, where the craftsman’s “savoir faire” still weighs heavily. Varieties such as merino sheep wool –the firm’s favorite material– or mohair, are complemented by Irish linens and Egyptian cottons, giving rise to garments with an exquisite fall and full of details in their different layers.

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For the next spring-summer, OTEYZA opts for a color palette where its blacks and whites abound as sources of rigor and contrast, as well as toasted yellows, greenish blues, copper and light grays, which give rhythm and rupture to the collection.

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OTEYZA is a Spanish menswear firm founded in 2012 by Paul García de Oteyza and Caterina Pañeda. The designer duo vindicates traditional tailoring from their workshop in Madrid, becoming one of the greatest defenders and exponents of contemporary custom made and luxury prét-a-couture.

Recently, the firm has been awarded the 2018 National Fashion Award in the category of Innovative Entrepreneurship, as well as the 2018 T Magazine’s Award (The New York Times magazine) for Best Male Collection. The following year, they were VOGUE’s Who’s On Next 2019 finalists.

OTEYZA is a laboratory of creation in continuous evolution. Its activity is based on three lines: season-by-season design of ready-to-couture collections, bespoke and made to measure tailoring…

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