Home ModeFashion Week 1910 BORBONESE AH20/21

1910 BORBONESE AH20/21

by pascal iakovou
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FALL-WINTER 2020/2021 2020 marks Borbonese’s 110th anniversary. Founded in 1910, the brand has crossed the XX century forging bonds with preeminent figures from the Italian and international artistic milieu and is now marching fast into the XXI century. Filled with artistic masterpieces from the whole century, overlooking landmarks such as the Duomo and Palazzo Reale, Museo Del Novecento is the perfect backdrop to reaffirm an awareness of the past and an outlook towards the future. Here 1910 Borbonese, the parallel dimension to the Borbonese label envisioned by Dorian Tarantini and Matteo Mena, takes life. Crossing the corridors of the top floor of the museum, guests enter the Sala Lucio Fontana, the ceiling dominated by a massive neon sculpture by the Milanese modernist artist, walls opened by large widows. The space is invaded by video screens and architectural elements covered in carpeting, merging metaphysical with pop. Layering is the byword: of decades and references, thinking about Domus, the iconic architecture magazine conceived by Gio Ponti. Permeated by a sense of architectural restraint tainted with extreme glamour, the collection is equally layered, merging a ladylike spirit with hints of Nineties polish, Seventies wallpaper patterns with nods to hunting, sharp suiting in leather and demure shirt-dressing, with commanding outerwear on top. This season, the 1910 Borbonese woman is gloriously severe, her legs stem from chunky-heeled boots or sandals, a long-collared scarf wrapped around her neck like a cut-out trompe l’œil of a coat. The focus is on construction: collarless kimono coats and round skirts are opened by slits and panels; small jackets have darts that mark the waist. Shirtdresses flow gracefully and precisely. Leather and OP, the latter both as a fabric and a pattern, define the spirit, mixed with floral prints and solid masculine fabrics in dry textures. The silhouette is solemn, in black, chocolate brown, aviator blue and green lit with touches of red and peach. Accessories such as the 110 bag – a modern interpretation of the archival Lady Butterfly bag – and mirrored sunglasses with thick frames seal the message. 1910 is Borbonese on time acceleration. A vision for the now, drenched with glorious history.

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