Here is probably our favorite 2013 men’s collection: the one by Boris Bidjan Saberi. It’s at Garage Turennea place he had already occupied in 2011, that he invites us to present his autumn-winter 2013 collection, placed under the sign of craftsmanship and austerity. The Persian designer’s collection is urban, dark and predominantly black.
The models have a certain toughness about them, with their lively strides and looks, dressed in black, wearing the combo of beanie, backpack and leather boots, emphasizing the thuggish aspect, reminiscent of the burglar figure, but all in elegance. A striking paradox. 
An experimental, artisanal style, affordable fabrics such as canvas, denim and sweaters. While in his last collection, the designer was inspired by Mafia codes, this year he draws his main inspiration from the military world.
It’s easy to see the military aesthetic, with its clean lines and strictness. But on the other hand, he always plays with this paradox, in his use of fabrics and the mixed, articulated cuts he employs. 
His designs reveal a deep knowledge of craftsmanship, skilfully blended with couture. Coats belted at the waist, leather woodwork, detailed sleeves, parka jackets, asymmetrical transparent veils superimposed over pants, unconventional cuts, the sarouel, mixtures of raw materials, the oversized scarf, unstructured pants, the absence of color: these are the unmistakable signs of Boris Bidjan Saberi’s universe and creative touch. 
It’s at
Silencio
a Paris club imagined and designed by
David Lynch
that Boris Bidjan Saberi celebrated the closing of menswear in Paris, as well as the launch of the first Saberi monograph: a book retracing the designer’s 11 past collections.
Sophie Farjon
