L’Oréal Professionnel Academy. Dévastée draws us into her world as soon as we enter the room. Black, white and the inevitable illustration of a cemetery.
Genius Loci, or « the story of a landscape that takes possession of the person in it… ». For Spring Summer 2011, design duo Ophélie Klère and François Alary once again immerse us in a dark, melancholy atmosphere. A chronicle of haunted gardens, phantasmagorical trees and flowers stuck to clothes.
Music sounds, stops, then starts again. The first silhouette appears.
Long and lanky, with their hair pulled back, the models move sedately to a soundtrack that is both bewitching and heavy. The music sets the pace for the show.
Blacks, whites and grays follow on from each other, blending both plain fabrics and the brand’s unmistakable patterns.
This season, we find white flowers resting on the garment, as well as broad stripes in knitwear or in discreet transparency. The unmistakable black-and-white cemetery designs are featured on light tops and shirts.
The designer couple successfully combine different motifs or use one over an entire look.
Volumes are ample, even oversized for jackets and some shirt dresses.
Next summer, Dévastée is forgetting cleavage. Necklines close to the neck and shirts closed to the last button are de rigueur.
As for jackets, the duo opt for 3/4 length sleeves, folded or delicately marked shoulders with long sleeves.
The fabrics are fluid. Some are subtly transparent, creating a silhouette that is both romantic and strong.
Precise cuts and graphic prints, Dévastée has once again succeeded in drawing us into her dark universe.
Stéphanie Macé.