Seasons often follow one another, but never resemble one another. And this is the case for Eva Minge, who surprises us with a monochrome Couture collection for Autumn Winter 2010-2011.
The Polish designer offers us a composition dominated by a single color: black. She returns to a much more refined, yet graphic style. The silhouettes are feminine, combining tulle, silk and lace. The Eva Minge woman is fatal and favors ultra-chic formal wear.
Inspired by modern opera, rock’n’roll and the timeless image of the femme fatale, Eva Minge’s collection features multiple superimposed fabrics and graphic shapes. The silhouettes are slender and elongated, alternating pantsuits and long evening dresses, sometimes with high leg splits. Steamy dresses and a mermaid look are the order of the day, with a high, marked waistline. The waist is emphasized with thick belts to bring out its finesse.
The mix of materials multiplies in an always coherent score. She dresses her transparencies in fur, like this sleeveless cardigan worn belted, or in embroidery on certain evening gowns. Tulle lends a theatrical touch to many of her dresses, for an ultra-chic glamour that she masters perfectly. She doesn’t hesitate to incorporate military-style details, as in the case of her thick coat dresses with forges, or her small high pockets, a refined take on the codes of military jackets.
The Eva Minge woman is no less fatal and likes to stand out in her clothing choices. She chose a motif reminiscent of tree foliage for some of her dresses, for a very successful plant effect and a rare elegance in a long strapless gown. She’ll imagine herself as theatrical in a black raven dress, with wings spread like a shield, or as a mermaid in a dress with a bib motif reminiscent of a scaly skin, ending in a cascade of tulle. She remains mysterious by multiplying transparencies and small details cleverly placed here and there to hide the essential.
Eva Minge’s Autumn-Winter 2010-2011 collection is much less ostentatious, but as chic and glamorous as ever. The Eva Minge woman is resolutely feminine and seductive, and seems determined to remain so, much to our delight.
Credit photo : ©Patrice Stable
Marie-Odile Radom