Neon lights softened by curtains, tam tam stools, a shepherd’s chair and the show can begin. True to her minimalist and rather conceptual style, the designer Adeline André presents Biais, her new collection of dresses with three armholes, cultivating the purity in bias cuts.
And it is the staging that surprises. The first model enters the stage wearing one of those famous red dresses with three armholes. Dress which lets guess several layers. Very quickly, she is followed by the creator and her assistant. They begin to remove the dress of the first model while another model arrives dressed in a small white dress that she removes in turn to reveal a poppy dress, as red as the first dress. The first model then wears another dress with three armholes that we guess to be the one on top of others. And the dress she has just left is immediately worn by the next model who is then dressed by the designer and her assistant. Then the two models leave the stage. And the first model reappears again with the designer and her assistant.
And the ritual begins again. The first model will serve as a relay for each piece of the collection except for one piece with a double neckline and rat tail straps.
Like an allegory, the first mannequin sheds its various layers to keep only the essentials and passes the torch to the next one who accepts the gift.
Each new dress allows to appreciate the fluidity of the cut, the quality of the organza or the silk gorgette. The colors are floral (poppy, bougainvillea, nasturtium), organic (sulfur, oxide, orpiment, flesh), fruity (raspberry). The dresses are long, with neckline and sometimes hems turned. The undressing puts the details forward, such as the rat-tail belt of the first model that we watch knot. But the whole thing remains imbued with a wise sobriety.
This collection is for all women of this time, women of all ages as are the various models. The makeup is very Japanese, bordering on geisha, all accentuated by some white stripes added in the hair of some models and minimalist shoes from United Nude.
Marie-Odile Radom
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
