In southern Burgundy, where the Mâconnais stretches out under an almost southern light, Mâcon Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four 2023 aptly embodies the parcel-based ambition of Vignerons des Terres Secrètes. This cuvée, from a vineyard of just 1.06 hectares nestled mid-slope in the commune of Milly-Lamartine, illustrates the cooperative’s ability to reveal singular terroirs, far from any standardization.
Situated at an altitude of 350 meters, the Clos du Four parcel benefits from a sunrise exposure, ideal for preserving the aromatic freshness of the Chardonnay while promoting gradual ripening. The deep, very stony clay-limestone soils provide a mineral base that plays a decisive role in the wine’s expression, bringing tension and length. This precision work is in line with the historic philosophy of Les Vignerons des Terres Secrètes, guided by an intimate knowledge of their vineyards and a strong desire to isolate the most expressive “lieux-dits” of the Mâconnais region.
The 2023 vintage stood out for its particularly favorable weather conditions. Despite record-breaking heat, it benefited from timely rainfall on the eve of the harvest, enabling the grapes to reach optimum ripeness without losing their balance. After harvesting, the grapes are gently pressed, then precisely settled before fermentation. The juice is then cooled for eight days to develop the aromatic palette, before being vinified in 228-liter barrels. Aging continues for ten months in oak barrels, in a constant search for harmony between fruit, substance and wood.
On tasting, Mâcon Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four 2023 seduces with its luminous, elegant gold color with green highlights. The complex, harmonious nose blends notes of pear and peach with nuances of white flowers and gunflint, the mineral signature of the terroir. On the palate, the wine reveals itself to be fruity and ripe, carried by a tonic freshness and beautiful precision. The long, persistent finish is underpinned by an assertive minerality, a guarantee of balance and digestibility.
Conceived as a gourmet cuvée, this parcel selection is an ideal accompaniment to filet of Saint-Pierre with zucchini or sautéed veal with cream, highlighting the culinary versatility of Mâcon Chardonnay. With an ageing potential of three to five years, Clos du Four 2023 is positioned as a wine for immediate pleasure, also capable of gaining complexity with age.
Offered at a recommended retail price of €11.90, this Mâcon Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four 2023 perfectly illustrates the promise of Vignerons des Terres Secrètes: to offer wines that are precise, easy to understand and accessible, deeply rooted in their terroir. A convincing demonstration of the vitality of today’s Mâconnais, where high standards of quality and the democratization of good wine now go hand in hand.
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