On January 23, Jung Wook-jun orchestrated an unexpected technical encounter at the Théâtre National de Chaillot. Between the static rigor of tailoring and the protective engineering of motorcycling, the “NEWSTALGIA” collection questions the permanence of clothing in the face of speed.
The Seoul-based house, owned by Samsung C&T’s fashion division, continues its exploration of volume and structure. Where others seek immediate visual effect, JUUN.J here seems to be interested in carapace. The show, composed of 46 passages, is articulated like a two-beat demonstration, a tension between the silence of the past and the noise of the future.
The architecture of silence
The opening of the show imposes a cold calm. A series of clean-cut black tuxedo silhouettes parade through the Théâtre de Chaillot. These are not conventional evening outfits, but a contemporary reinterpretation of the Maison’s archives. The work in wool, the fundamental material of this wardrobe, serves as the basis for a strict architectural construction, setting a restrained tone before the switch to movement. It’s a vision of time as a continuum, where the formalism of the past anchors the silhouette.
Protection engineering
The breakthrough comes in the treatment of sleeve parts and this season’s central collaboration. JUUN.J joins forces with Alpinestars RSRV, the experimental division of the Italian motorsports equipment manufacturer. Far from simply affixing logos, this alliance explores the intersection between racing and clothing.
The materials – leather and denim – are treated with the reverse-engineered approach typical of RSRV methodology. The final “biker” ensembles are not suits, but high-performance shells adapted to the urban wardrobe. Here we find the heritage of 60 years of Alpinestars protective know-how, diverted from its primary function to become an aesthetic structure.
Time as matter
Creative Director Jung Wook-jun describes this collection as a “demanding journey”. The concept of “NEWSTALGIA” is not melancholy, but uses the archive as a raw material, like leather or wool, to be reshaped by new inspiration.
“Revisiting our archives and reinterpreting them […] allowed us to explore timeless ideas through a contemporary prism.” – Jung Wook-jun
This collection confirms JUUN.J’s position not just as a fashion label, but as a cultural entity capable of bringing together sartorial heritage and high industrial performance.
The Detail: Alpinestars RSRV This is not the Italian brand’s consumer line. RSRV is Alpinestars’ laboratory of exploration. The division applies technical processes and protective materials (usually reserved for competition) to experimental forms. A “form first” approach that prioritizes structural expression over simple sporting functionality.
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