Swallows don’t always make spring, but at Flocons de Sel, Emmanuel Renaut’s three-starred restaurant in Megève, some of his signature products are sure to signal the return of fine weather. Five products that speak to us, of course, of the Alpine terroir so dear to the chef’s heart. Five products, sometimes to be discovered and savored like a walk in the mountains, which will be sublimated and reinterpreted on the plate.
Elderflower
The white flowers of the elderberry, a wild shrub found in hedgerows, appear between April and June. Walkers then enjoy their delicate, bewitching fragrance, with notes of honey and almond. A fragrance so seductive that elderflowers are sometimes referred to as “poor man’s vanilla”. Its antiviral properties make it invaluable for flavoring herbal teas and anti-rheum syrups, but it can also be used in elderberry jelly, vinegar or wine. On the Flocons de sel menu, they can be found in ice cream form or infused in oil to enhance salt-cooked Arctic char.
Crayfish from the lake
As soon as the first fine days arrive, these crustaceans rise to the surface of mountain lakes. Last spring, Emmanuel Renaut served crayfish, freshly fished from Lake Geneva, in a corolla shape, to accompany morel mushrooms and beaten chicken yolk flavored with amaretto. They were also served alongside a fine pike stuffing, topped with a crayfish carcass jus and roasted almonds.
Chef’s touch: “This year, I’m planning to treat them to a salad and serve them warm, with cherry blossom and chives. The cherry blossoms are a nod to Japan, a country I’m particularly fond of. Every spring, the cherry trees are covered with thousands of pink petals. It’s an enchantment.
Tricholome de la Saint-Georges
This little mushroom, also known as the spring chickweed, appears at the edge of forests or in shady meadows from April onwards. Hence its name: Saint George’s Day falls on April 23! Harvesting takes place from April to June, and many enthusiasts enjoy the firm, white flesh with its characteristic scent of fresh flour. It is an elegant accompaniment to
scallops or white-fleshed fish.
Chef’s touch: “For me, it’s one of the best raw mushrooms around. I like its slightly milky
side and its notes of almond and fresh hazelnut. It goes very well with radishes, either in a salad or sliced in a Greek style
and served with a celery consommé.”
Lake trout
Freshly caught at dawn in the turquoise waters of the high altitude lakes, the trout that Emmanuel Renaut likes to work with between April and May is a big fish. The finest pieces can weigh up to 10 kilos! Its color varies according to the depth of the lake. It’s best to cook it simply, and just right, to preserve the natural flavor of its flesh.
Chef’s touch: “I prefer to cook it simply, in salt, and dress it with a salad of garden herbs drizzled with oil flavored with lemon balm, lemon and elderflower. For the spring herb salad, I combine the spiciness of geranium leaves, which are more fragrant than the flowers, with the delicacy and tonic virtues of yarrow. We add goosefoot for its fresh, celery-like flavor and, for a touch of acidity, a little sorrel
from the Alps”.
Oxalis
This small wild plant, sometimes nicknamed “little sorrel” (or “Hallelujah” because it flowers at Easter!), generally grows in the shade of undergrowth. At higher altitudes, it thrives at the edge of coniferous forests. The acidity of the soil doesn’t bother it much, since acidity is its primary quality. In cooking, its small, clover-shaped leaves are refreshing and digestive, making it a perfect substitute for sorrel. It should only be used freshly picked, as dried it loses all its taste and virtues.
Chef’s tip: “It’s the little magic touch that brings acidity to all my spring broths and consommés
. It flavors my oils, adds pep to a ricotta stuffing or melts into a purée to accompany
lake fish”.
HOTEL ***** – RESTAURANT FLOCONS DE SEL
1775, route du Leutaz – 74120 Megève
Information and reservations: +33 (0)4 50 21 49 99 – [email protected]
www.floconsdesel.com
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
