Men’s fashion week is a busy one, to say the least, for Belgian designer Kris Van Assche, as he oversees the artistic direction of Dior for men in addition to his eponymous label. And while his distinctive aesthetic can be found in both collections, he succeeds brilliantly in delivering two singular collections for both brands. For Dior Homme, he draws his inspiration from the English poet Thomas Campion (16th/17th century), who proclaimed “The Sun Must Have His Shade” on his domino-adorned invitations, and more generally from the particular aesthetic of the 1980s, a decade that saw the advent of sportswear/streetwear.
Also strongly inspired by Mondrian’s famous rectangles (not unlike the work of a great couturier who worked for the House of Dior, Monsieur Saint-Laurent), Kris Van Assche delivers a collection strongly influenced by sportswear and a strong choice of colors. The outfits distill a palette composed of shades of blue, eggplant, beige and black. Few colors, but a play on nuances that allows us to appreciate the geometric shapes and obvious inspiration.
Van Assche pays homage to the 80s: the musical score includes Paninaro and the finale is set to Domino Dancing (the same dominoes found on the invitation!), two hits by the English band Pet Shop Boys. Once again this season, the French fashion house is given a breath of youthful freshness with M. van Assche’s “sporty” creations. The heels of the shoes are adorned with metallic details reminiscent of sneaker outsoles, a testament to the evolution of the house in the hands of the Belgian designer, who injects a dose of modernity and realism.
The Dior Homme spring/summer 2014 collection was embodied by a cast of models (Mr. van Assche’s favorites) including: Felix Riess, Victor Nylander, Alexander Ferrario, Janis Ancens, Matthieu Gregoire, Adrien Sahores, Ian Sharp, Matthew Bell, Almantas Petkunas, Elliot Vulliod, Ben Stift, Arthur Gosse, Thomas Bukovatz, Ben Allen, Kristoffer Hasslevall, Jan Purski, Sam Maouchi, Georges de Saint-Mars, Isaac Ekblad, Yannick Abrath, Luuk Van Os, Jeroen Smits and Nemanja Maksic.
Photos courtesy of the House Of Dior/Fashion GPS
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
