Ermenegildo Zegna was clearly one of the most eagerly awaited shows of the season, as it marked the return of the incredibly talented Stefano Pilati to the fashion world. As such, the show exuded a certain ambiance, a particular aura of expectation, curiosity and general excitement. And it’s fair to say that Mr. Pilati didn’t fail to surprise us this season.
Classicism at its finest and most delicate: that would be a good summary of Stefano Pilati’s Spring/Summer 2014 men’s interpretation at Ermenegildo Zegna. Light color-blocking (in stripes), winter garments transposed to the summer season, rolled-up sleeves…it was all part of the designer’s vision for the internationally renowned house.
The casting was at least as important as the clothes, making this show one of the most memorable of the season. Catwalk ‘veterans’ (Aiden Andrews, Adrien Sahores…) rubbed shoulders with newer male modeling stars such as Jester White. The point here is that the versatility of the cast was in tune with the diversity of the garments, demonstrating the consistency and attention to detail of this collection.
Elegance is a weapon, and Stefano Pilati knows how to wield it: the designer navigates from square, slim-fitting ensembles to more airy, blurred silhouettes. The colors remain conservative (Blue is the black) and in some respects worthy of a winter collection. A nod to Milan’s sweltering summer? Certainly. It goes without saying that Stefano Pilati is a rebel of subtle, sensual execution.
Mary Yasmine Arrouche
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