Home TravelA getaway to Vichy for art and pleasure

A getaway to Vichy for art and pleasure

by Sophia Lafaye
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Vichy is a breathtaking city. It took off in the 19th century as a spa town, under the impetus of Napoleon III. It became a must for Parisian and foreign socialites alike. Today, it is resolutely looking to the future, with various urban development projects (the quays of the Allier, etc.) and superb exhibitions.

To stay in the city is to be intoxicated by its many possibilities, to indulge in its pleasures. Since 2008, the town has been celebrating its past in all its glory with Les Fêtes napoléoniennes. Three days – April 26, 27 and 28 this year – provide the perfect opportunity to explore this era. Incredible festivities where extras and the public can literally feel transported to another period. Crinolines and tails fill the city, parks and public spaces. With emotion, it’s possible to imagine what life was like back then. Horse-drawn carriages punctuated the avenues, while horses punctuated the rhythm of the fanfares with their steps. The program of festivities is dense and diversified. Every year, it gets better and better. The Opera House, built in 1863 by Charles Bagder, was commissioned by the Emperor. In 1865, it became Vichy’s first entertainment building. During festivities, it played a key role in the town’s historical interest. Almost a must-see, it is much visited. This year, Jean-François Vinciguerra presented an original creation, Il Viaggio…à Vichy!
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This is a pastiche featuring excerpts from works by Offenbach, Rossini and others. The theme is playful, as several individuals hope to make it to Vichy. Stuck at the departure station, will they manage to reach the city before the festivities come to an end? Presented on the evening of the inauguration, this truculent blend of real-life experience and lyricism won over the audience.

On Saturday, a superb exhibition showcased two great French houses, Christofle and Mellerio. Both were official suppliers to the Imperial Household. The former, present since 1830, produced various dinner services for the imperial couple. Here, pieces dating from the imperial period reveal the quality of the workmanship and the excellence of the style.
Image 55Lectures on the Art of the Table provided an insight into Court etiquette.

The Mellerio family, prestigious since 1613, sees its history intimately linked to Empress Eugénie. Delicate ornaments, brooches and other jewelry items were created for her.
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To celebrate their 400th anniversary, these jewelers are unveiling part of their heritage. The finesse of their creations testifies to their extreme sense of aesthetics.
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In addition to the exhibits, archives were also presented.

In the evening, a dinner and dance introduced the audience to mazurkas, polkas and waltzes. Many historical re-enactment enthusiasts were present.
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Some of them, young women, create their outfits year after year. Tracking down antique patterns and precious fabrics, they meticulously elaborate a silhouette.
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Gloves, shoes, fans and other accessories are also studied. Between the twirling dresses, the dazzling music and the tasting of food prepared according to recipes from the era, the moment is precious.

The following day, theatrical guided tours took place. These guided tours of the city, in the style of the “Emperor”, demonstrate the latter’s impact on the urban landscape. The tour was punctuated by historical re-enactments. In the morning, a Verdi aperitif was organized at the Hotel Aletti, in the presence of the Roma 800 dancers, invited as part of the Verdi year, to demonstrate their speed and sense of Italian elegance.
A little later, a Costume Parade brought together nearly 300 extras, dancers and musicians.
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The dance parade featured a Flash Mob finale. Masks, facsimiles of Second Empire masks, were handed out to encourage participation.
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In the evening, a grand ball set the Grand Casino alight.

Vichy offers other, equally cultural pleasures. It is currently offering the first edition of Portraits A photography-related event designed to raise public awareness of the art of photography. From portraits of the anonymous to celebrities, this exhibition features a range of beautiful images. Between worldly snapshots and photo-reportage, the subject matter oscillates. The mix is captivating.
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Encountering the work of J. Bonnet, her captures of celebrities such as Tilda Swinton or Korean director YangIk-June, takes on another dimension when compared to the clichéd works of Vanessa Winship, and her Ecolières d’Anatolie.
The Rural schoolgirls of the Eastern Anatolian borderlands
Liu Bolin’s extraordinary ability to stage the unspeakable moves us. Bodies emerging from an omnipresent background, bodies trapped in a system.
Family Photo Liu Bolin(4).
Sarah Moon, Denis Rouvre and others suggest other universes. Talent allows us to dream, to explore, no doubt … In parallel, a photo competition is being organized, supported by Magazine Photo. The exhibition will run until September 1.

To vary the pleasures, night races are organized at the Hippodrome until September.
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Two evenings of exceptional entertainment are scheduled for Saturday August 31 and September 14. Equestrian shows and presentations are planned.

For lovers of enchantment, a pyrotechnics festival is scheduled for August 15 on the Allier.
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Gastronomic walks are recommended. Two stores are a must: La Maison Moinet and Les Marocains. Both are full of treasures and delicacies. The former has a say in the famous Vichy pastilles. She also makes some incredible sweets. A body of fruit purée and almond paste, all coated in a film of hard caramel.
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Aesthetically pleasing and succulent, they deserve attention. Another undeniable asset of this place is the beautiful compositions and reissues of old boxes.
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The Moroccans prepare a special candy created in 1854, under Napoleon III, l’Alma, a hazelnut and almond praline coated with royal icing. Always presented, it gives an idea of the delicacies of the time.
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Philippe Fumoux’s Absinthe is sold here. Made from recipes dating back to various historical periods, it is in no way toxic. Several versions exist, from ‘Verte Napoléon’ to ‘Verte de la IIIème République’.
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Various utensils are available to facilitate tasting this beverage. The result is a real tasting ritual. The Green Fairy could yet have many followers!

An incredible range of activities is on offer. It’s impossible to list them all. For accommodation, the city boasts one of the finest hotel complexes in the world, with a focus on prestige and quality. A number of bed & breakfasts are also available. One of the most charming is undoubtedly the Demeure d’Hortense.
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La Maison dates back to the 19th century. Completely reinterpreted by Catherine and Philippe Gauthier, it embodies a delicate art of living. Each room is pleasantly named: Guilin, Les Ames galantes, etc. The bathrooms are all atypical. Meticulously designed, they encourage relaxation and escape. Here, a multi-jet Italian shower, elsewhere a relaxing bathtub… The choice is yours!
Travelling to Vichy this summer, whether for a short break or a longer stay, can be a real change of scenery. For further information, visit
www.vichy-tourisme.com

http://www.chambre-hote-vichy.fr/
Photo credits J. Bonnet, V. Winship, Liu Bolin, Emmanuel Lattès,Ville de Vichy, Maison Moinet, Sofia Lafaye.

Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)

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