Modern and sexy as hell, these are the adjectives one could use to describe the latest women’s collection from Scandinavian brand Acne Studios. In a metal, quasi-industrial setting, the house paraded its creations for autumn/winter 2013/2014 in Paris, and when you’re familiar with its philosophy, you couldn’t fail to be charmed by the house’s choices for the season.
Acne Studios is all about modernity with strict, disciplined cuts. A paradox, you may say, but it’s a challenge that the Swedish fashion house brilliantly rises to (I’m thinking here of its pre-fall 2013 collection, which is simply to die for). For this season, layering is king at Acne. Pieces are paired coherently, not in competition with each other. So, in each look, we find a strong piece accompanied by basics.
Although this was the women’s ready-to-wear collection, it was punctuated by men’s silhouettes (models Adrien Sahores, Arthur Gosse and Reece Sanders were part of the cast).
The show is divided into several parts, like a play with several acts, and we can see that different color themes are addressed: black, blue, mustard yellow, red, beige and gray. And around each of these colors, the collection is distilled.
The play of lengths is very present, reinforced by asymmetries on the skirts (mini at the front and long at the back) and the thigh-highs/bottoms/peep-toe. Draping is also present, supporting the fluid yet effective movement of the garments. There’s also a mix of materials, with leather jackets structuring a rather airy silhouette (or knit sweaters and metal chains breaking up the ethereal side of loose pants).
Overall, this collection distills everything that makes the Acne brand so atypical and recognizable. The subtle blend of originality and modesty (even asceticism) for silhouettes that mix both good basics and other pieces illustrating the creativity the house is capable of. I predict commercial success for the strongest pieces, because they exude what makes Acne what it is: a blend of modernity, seduction and simplicity.
Mary Yasmine
Arrouche
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