Maison Martin Margiela spring summer 2013

The anti-brand with the white label and practical information presented its ready-to-wear, haute couture, resort and home decor collections on Thursday November 8. An opportunity for Luxsure to take a closer look at the creations of the mysterious Belgian designer.

And it’s with the man that we begin our visit. Lots of white and mixed materials.

The lines are pure, so there are no prints. The concept behind this collection is recovery, so we find pieces made entirely from army patchworks and garments with an aged look thanks to a dyeing technique that makes it look as if the garment has been left in the sun for too long.

For the couture pieces, the most striking elements remain the “jewelry” pieces, notably the breastplates and the stone-set masks covering the entire head.

In decoration, it’s the detour of use that takes pride of place. Margiela’s ability to stay within the theme of the original object’s use, while changing the purpose of that same use (the spoons twisted into napkin rings, the lunette-loupe….), is to be applauded.

The resort collection (or mid-season collection) brings back the mix of materials, fluidity and transparency. The colors are a little more daring than Margiela’s signature palette: navy blue, verdigris and fuchsia on incredible drapes accompanied by beaded and reflective metal accessories.

The spring-summer 2013 collection brings us to a close, a collection in which we find all the house’s codes, starting with that obsessive, virginal white, mixed with the multiple plays of transparency offered by the use of crinoline on the garment. Oversized, draped, rigid and decollete where you least expect them, the signature of the house’s creations. The garment becomes an accessory, creating a new silhouette in its own right, and the accessory becomes necessary thanks to its ergonomics.

Photography by Samantha Rakotoson