Serge Cajfinger’s vision for Paule Ka this spring-summer is one of graphic duality, contrast and femininity.
Color duality, first of all, as black and white set the tempo for this new fashion score, enlivened on certain pieces by the depth of garnet red. Then there’s the play of lines and materials, as the meticulously-crafted cuts revive the sixties DNA of a Jackie Onassis taking flight. The lightness of cotton piqué and the fall of duchesse satin merge, while blistered organza and the lacey spirit of guipure add an airy touch to the silhouette. Ostrich feathers also make an appearance in a collection where garments are transformed, playing equally well with daytime references and evening glamour, outdoor wear and lingerie details.
The men’s shirt, a summer staple. Reinterpreted, it is the red thread of the collection: white, buttoned, it appears under a dress. Unless it becomes a dress in its turn, a knowing nod to those women for whom a taste for fashion goes hand in hand with a taste for power. Crystals embroidered in geometric patterns underline the fabric’s support, giving this very dressy collection a light that evokes the elegance of Palm Beach.
Exclusivity is also in the spotlight. An exceptional guest, artist Julien Colombier offers four unique pieces, including a coat and a corolla skirt, the vivacity of his flat tints of color, the density of his pastels and the dynamism of his brushstrokes. These two pieces, which evoke both Grace Kelly’s legendary allure and the pleasure of strolling through a contemporary art gallery, are produced in limited editions.
Between French chic and American escapade, accessories vibrate in unison. Smoky, citrine or aquamarine, plexiglass and rhinestones become necklaces and earrings, while tinted transparency adorns pumps.
Last but not least, this very Parisian silhouette is punctuated by a little hat, and a delightfully sunny basket bag, whose golden midolino, crowned with a silver leather handle, already heralds the fine days of summer.
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