The young designer Iris Van Herpen showed her new collection at this year’s Mairie du 5e. It was a highly anticipated show, as Iris Van Herpen seems to be ushering in a new era in traditional haute couture, moving towards experimental haute couture. Indeed, the talented Dutch designer’s collections are seen as art in their own right. One model after another, in a divine halo of light, I can’t help but smile in delight at these marvels. The outfits verge on the unreal, and typify the overflowing imagination of the young designer. Sculpted coats, architectural allure, crystal dresses, Iris Van Herpen is an artist who adorns women with a magnified carapace, a veritable ornament shining with a thousand lights. Incredible precision, detail, finesse, volume and grandeur: she reinvents codes, based on ancestral handmade techniques, and using original new textiles such as polyamide, acrylic or synthetic snakeskin. She paints a portrait of a hybrid, animal woman, halfway between alien and arachnid. Of particular note was the long blue polyamide coat that opened the show, clearly inspired by the image conveyed by the extraterrestrial universe. The garment shimmers, sparkles, fills us with wonder and transports us to a parallel world. We salute the designer’s ability to twist the garment into a jewel, as in the swarowski tutu dress. A meticulous aesthetic, a conceptual fashion show that feels like an exhibition. As for the new pair of shoes created for the show, they are the result of the sixth collaboration between the designer and the brand United Nude. The model, called“Thorn”, is decorated with sharp spines made from hand-cut stones.
n inspired futuristic collection Alexander McQueenwho was none other than her mentor when she interned in London during her studies. Once again this year, Iris Van Herpen put on a show worthy of the greatest Spielberg ( The Fifth Element comes to mind), and is setting the bar very high for her next collection, which we’re already looking forward to.
The young prodigy waves to the crowd, and the parade draws to a close.
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