All bets are off… For the Azzaro Autumn-Winter 2012/13 collection, Mathilde Castello Branco throws down the dice and proposes a game full of fantasy and twists, with subtle nods to Loris Azzaro. With her cards firmly in her hand, the house’s new artistic director plays with classicism and modernity, dream and reality. An imperial Marisa Berenson in Barry Lyndon inspired her idea of a poker game, whose symbols can be seen figuratively on knits, prints and accessories, but also the dramatic, nocturnal side on models with a sensuality flush to the skin. A croupier-style vest combines opaque and transparent fabrics with tuxedo pants for a graphic silhouette. Evening gowns play a double game of materials: contrasting jersey and chiffon, or a richly embroidered panel. Like mirages, trompe l’œil models sow confusion. Collars and bows seem to float on the body. Embroidered rhinestones evoke stars or rain, or a mysterious flounce that reveals itself at the bend of a dress.
Another playful presence is Lori, the little exotic parrot with a name so close to Loris. In chrome, it settles on unexpected perches: the hip or neckline of a dress, the heel of a shoe. Like an egg-bird, it also comes in a precious bag. Silver, marquetry, enamel: these accessories are veritable jewels. Shoes flirt with fetishism, from naughty versions of bourgeois pumps to high boots in silver python.
Jersey, supple satin, organza, chiffon or tuxedo wool opt for liquid drapes, enhanced by daring combinations that evoke the essence of the men’s wardrobe. The color palette evokes the intensity of an exhilarating night, the energy of electric blue or plum violet giving way to the softness of a pearl-gray dawn. Guy Bourdin-style red still has its card to play, combined with the greed of luminous fuschia pink.
With its sensuality, this collection asserts the unsettling elegance of the Azzaro woman without bluffing.
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