When listening to the notes of Debussy’s Clair de Lune, Didit Hediprasetyo doesn’t see the predictable parade of graceful ballerinas. He “hears” the beautiful imperfections on the surface of the star, he dreams of a chiaroscuro beauty, he imagines organic accords of vibrant white, putty grey, lichen green… A restrained musicality that inspires a more feminine allure, a couture that aspires to purity, a sharp and personal elegance.
Nothing is smooth, nor literal in this silhouette of delicately twisted classicism. There’s a taste for grain, texture and relief in the crumpled cotton swollen with tulle; in the gabardine of a man’s suit worked in bouillonnés on a bustier; in the sublime green velvet of a tube skirt that imprints the retina; in the duchesse satin randomly embroidered with gansé buttons that evoke the craters of the Moon… Even the swan feathers lining a spectacular coat reveal a rough touch, sweeping away any temptation to be a little mawkishly soft.
If Didit likes to exploit the register of couture cuts, he punctuates his wardrobe with varied lengths: the hem skims the ankle, cuts the shin or gets in the way of the knee. Above all, he breathes his keen sense of modernity into this bespoke luxury, with a jersey tee worn with a straight skirt belted with immaculate feathers. The short jacket mimics the look of a perfecto. The cropped trench coat is cut from Songket, a traditional Indonesian brocade with a silver sheen. And the ultimate subversion, a silk dress with marbled effects reveals patch pockets. Culture shock, chic of a certain cool.
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