Petar Petrov presented his Autumn/Winter 2011-2012 men’s collection in a dark basement with concrete floors and neon ceilings. Installed next to the photographers’ wall, a young tattooed man was making the final adjustments before delivering the acoustic performance that would give this unusual fashion week venue a special atmosphere. Puzzling and intriguing, the young Bulgarian designer brilliantly rekindled our curiosity, which is sometimes less intense for these end-of-day shows. So, without really knowing whether we were going to see a fashion show or a rock band rehearsal, we waited quietly, impatient to find out what happened next.
No sooner do the first silhouettes appear than we immediately understand the designer’s choice of setting. His collection is a reflection of the place in which we find ourselves, both simple and pure. Aimed above all at the contemporary, urban boy, the designer has created very clean, unadorned looks, but always with a touch of sophistication.
Petar Petrov’s aim was to create comfortable, easy-to-wear garments, and he played with volumes and materials to soften his silhouettes. Fluid pants, for example, are looser than usual and worn low-waisted. Whether in canvas or leather, they follow the shape of a body in motion. Coats, meanwhile, add volume to the upper part of the body, rounding out the features of a wiry silhouette.
However, it’s by incorporating more fitted pieces into his looks that Petar Petrov really manages to sublimate his silhouettes. The maxi sweaters we’d like to wrap ourselves in, so soft they look, are worn close to the body. Similarly, slim-fitting, slightly sheer shirts lend sensuality to the silhouette.
Working in leather and fur, it’s also through the choice of materials used that he underlines his refinement. Although certain pieces could be described as sportswear, the fact that the designer uses noble materials to create them gives them a much greater value, as in the case of these shaved fur jackets.
Equally interesting, asymmetries give structure and character to even the most neutral silhouettes. Sometimes mixing materials, the designer happily superimposes a short, long-haired fur jacket over another, longer, canvas jacket.
Petar Petrov created unique pieces to symbolize this combination of materials. We were thus able to admire magnificent sweaters and jackets made half from wool and half from leather.
But it’s not just materials, asymmetries and volumes that Petar Petrov brings elegance to his silhouettes. The colors favored by the designer also bear witness to a certain refinement. Subtle shades of burgundy, blue and mustard yellow enhance the autumnal colors chosen for this collection.
With this unpretentious yet charming collection, Petar Petrov has established himself as a rising star on the Parisian menswear scene. Far from overkill, we particularly appreciate the fact that absolutely every piece in this collection can easily find a place in our wardrobe.
Romain Menei
Cette publication est également disponible en : Français (French)
