Felipe Oliveira Baptista predicts a harsh winter in vast arctic areas. And to remedy this, the designer from the Azores has developed a multifunctional wardrobe, versatile, adapted to all circumstances to soften the rigors of a polar cold in strict blue, black, chocolate, white. Like a modern-day explorer, the Felipe Oliveira Baptista woman wears glasses, superimposes volumes and wears very short chasuble dresses with short sleeves, or with long and flared sleeves, with a V-neck or square, with an American armhole.
In the purest classicism, these dresses are adorned with vests or fur coats to warm up the ensemble. The designer has also used the fur sparingly.
The chasuble dresses are suddenly more arty, very graphic but in a crazy retro spirit, some of which seem to me to be a very distant cousin of Yves Saint Laurent’s Mondrian Dress. But the creator seems to have rather crossed the road of the painter Kandinsky. As for the immaculate look, white chasuble dress and boots, how can we not see a reference to the Courrèges look.
We can detect here a white thermo-welded sleeve bottom in a kind of mittens very futuristic contrasting with the retro side of the rest of the dress. Details such as leather scarifications, inlays of materials in “stratum-chic” places have been added there on a pair of boots or even on the dress.
To face the freezing cold during these expeditions in this vast, the woman Felipe Oliveira Baptista is wearing warm shoes. The Portuguese designer adorns her with very high boots or boots with white, gray or black bangs, which caress the gait at every step.
An almost animal-like sensation of bundling up.
Marie-Odile RADOM
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