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« Nous avons voulu concentrer notre travail cette saison sur l’exploitation de la fluidité, le drapé et la forme à travers les techniques de couture, en y intégrant l’attitude contemporaine », déclare Kim Jones, directeur artistique de FENDI Couture et Prêt-à-Porter Femme.
Cette collection s’inspire fortement des créations de haute joaillerie de Delfina Delettrez Fendi. Les couleurs proviennent tant des tons chair que des pierres précieuses : diamants noirs, rubis, saphirs. « Il y a un jeu entre le doux et le dur, la chair et la pierre. »
Delfina Delettrez Fendi, directrice artistique de la Joaillerie pour FENDI, confie une relation émotionnelle avec les bijoux de la collection qu’elle espère partagée par les femmes qui les porteront. « Ces petits objets si forts, chargés de sens et de personnalité demandent une précision obsessive. Pourtant, en fin de compte, ils entretiennent une relation directe et intime avec le corps; ils sont une extension profonde et personnelle de la femme. »
Kim Jones et les artisans des ateliers FENDI cherchent à rendre la tradition couture plus humaine et accessible, légère avec un sentiment de volume, de fluidité, de drapé et de facilité pour celle qui la porte. La collection se caractérise par sa simplicité avec des subtilités cachées. L’accent est mis sur le volume, le drapé et la forme sculpturale, réalisés grâce à un patronage complexe et rigoureux, avec des vêtements souvent réalisés avec une seule couture.
Les techniques de broderie unissant les mondes du vêtement et de la joaillerie atteignent leur apogée dans cette collection. L’éclat rosé scintillant du dernier look a nécessité 1200 heures de travail à la main.
La collection de bijoux de Delfina Delettrez Fendi coexiste en symbiose avec la collection de prêt-à-porter. Composée de pièces uniques, l’ensemble couture est étendu à celui des bijoux. La palette de couleurs FENDI, alliant diamants blancs et jaunes exceptionnels avec des saphirs Padparadscha verts, oranges et roses, ainsi que des spinelles, ajoute une note d’éternité à la modernité de la collection.
La discrète multifacette de cette collection couture culmine avec les modèles parsemés d’embellissements semblables à des joyaux ou superposés de paillettes ton sur ton et de pierres à la clôture du défilé.
La bande sonore du défilé, ‘The Cold Song’ de Klaus Nomi, reflète à merveille l’émotion et la précision de la collection et de la couture elle-même, où le passé devient la base d’un présent et d’un futur Nouvelle Vague.
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: <> attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Bella Ranee Campen attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Camila Cabello attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Eiza Gonzalez attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: <> attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: <> attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Lily James attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: <> attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Zoe Saldana attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Naomi Watts attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Zoe Saldana attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: <> attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: (L-R) Haruna Kawaguchi, Lily James, Zita d’Hauteville, Cardi B, Camila Cabello and Shakira attend the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Li Qin attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Suki Waterhouse attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Eiza Gonzalez and Suki Waterhouse attend the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Lily James attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Zoe Saldana attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Cardi B attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Zita d’Hauteville attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Eiza Gonzalez and Lily James attend the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Eiza Gonzalez attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Shakira attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Eiza Gonzalez and Lily James attend the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Serge Brunschwig and Zoe Saldana attend the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Heart Evangelista attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: (L-R) Cardi B, Camila Cabello and Shakira attend the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Camila Cabello attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Adwoa Aboah attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Bella Ranee Campen and Li Qin attend the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: (L-R) Naomi Watts, Eiza Gonzalez, and Zoe Saldana attend the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Haruna Kawaguchi attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Suki Waterhouse attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Camila Cabello attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Shakira attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Fai Khadra attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Suki Waterhouse attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Eiza Gonzalez attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Shakira attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Zoe Saldana attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Lily James attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Zita d’Hauteville attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Shakira attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Eiza Gonzalez attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Eiza Gonzalez attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Bella Ranee Campen attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Camila Cabello attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Zita d’Hauteville attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Naomi Watts attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Adwoa Aboah attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Adwoa Aboah attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Bryan Grey Yambao, also known as Bryanboy, attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Alexandra Pereira attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Mary Leest attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Emili Sindlev attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Elena Perminova attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Caroline Daur attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Gabrielle Caunesil attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Emma Brooks attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Sophie Roe attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Leonie Hanne attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Veronica Ferraro attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Melissa Arr attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Yu Lee attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Fendi)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 06: Gessica Kayane attends the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show at Palais Brogniart on July 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Fendi)
