Palomo – The Closet – AW23

by pascal iakovou
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THE CLOSET – PALOMO AW23 Collection

New York City, Feb13th 2023 – The Closet presents an introspective conversation with our childhood self. A younger Alejandro who discovers for the first time a powerful relationship with the world of beauty, which he will analyze from a very early age with a privileged sensitivity, the characteristic trait that will define his peculiar vision for men’s fashion.

Back in New York City, Palomo presents his AW23 collection after an aesthetic inquiry into a stage of childhood in which the designer contextualizes the first layers of formation of our personality and our first interactions with clothing, which often takes place by furtively exploring our mother’s closet.

The Palomo boy is unknowingly experimenting with the barriers of gender conventionality, playing with towels, silk scarves, duvets, blankets and other household items to construct an elevated self-image that flirts with the queer.

These, what were the initiatory images of a « primitive » Palomo look will be professionalized over time to reach a new level of sophistication.

The drama and aesthetic grandiloquence that characterizes the designer’s work, present in voluminous pieces in the shape of coats -reminiscent of cocoons created from quilts- coexist with less complex garments alluding to a recently discovered streetwear approach for the house.

With bright colors that take us to a gay Alice in Wonderland, a delicate work with draped tops and long dresses that a styling proposal by Alicia Padrón combines with fine mesh shirts, blouses made with vortexes of fabrics in floral print, scarves in a knit with rustic reminiscences and (faux) fur mini skirts that lengthen the figure of the model providing an (even more) fashionista breath to the proposal of the designer.

For accessories, Palomo carries on with the most representative silhouettes of the house featuring new colors -it is the case of the « Castellana » briefcase bag- and dropping in our wishlist a selection of loafers, boots and long boots contrasting with other styles by Puma, Palomo’s most recent collaborator.

In his most sparkling facet, Palomo dazzles us with Swarovski crystal pieces sprinkled throughout the garments, an exercise that culminates with jewelry from the new collection of a brand that has already become his best ally.

The beauty look matched The Closet collection with a naive aesthetic of soft and cheerful tones, a proposal directed by Marcelo Gutierrez’s team for M.A.C Cosmetics.

The hair-styling, by Sebastian Professional with Shay Dempsey and Anthony Cole at the helm, reminded us of the tousled looks of a teenager just out of bed, contributing to the perfect understanding of the inspiration behind Alejandro’s proposal. 

The headpieces, by Ruslan Baginskiy, were inspired by genderless fun and childhood memories. Putting a pillow on your head, making a towel cape, appropriating shapes and materials around you.

« We created 5 unique styles in 14 different colors and materials for the Palomo Spain collection. The lighthearted idea the collection has been refreshing in the harsh reality in which we live and create, reminding us of the innocent and sincere, the nostalgic and pure. Overall, there has been a very kindred spirit in working with the Palomo Spain team and the Palomo Spain team, we share a lot of common values » shares Ruslan.

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