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Ulyana Sergeenko Couture FW2021

by pascal iakovou
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Fall-Winter 2020/2021
Ulyana Sergeenko Couture

For her first-ever online show which earlier took place on the platform of Haute Couture fashion week in Paris, Ulyana Sergeenko prepared the short-movie about Fall-Winter collection 2020/2021 season. The new story is devoted to the timeless and unique Couture pieces and especially people who are standing behind each piece. We are inviting you to explore the lookbook of the new season which is created in the retro mood of the 40s.

Intuitively, from the very beginning, the fashion house of Ulyana Sergeenko has been creating a look for a woman regardless of time. The heroine of Ulyana easily changes her mood, scenery, and cities, sometimes even times and entire eras, but from the very first day she remains true to herself. She does not adapt to momentary trends, appreciates the sincerity of history, the purity of the idea. She seeks and finds them in the things that she surrounds herself.

Her wardrobe consists of dresses that fit every occasion, tailored jackets, and two-piece suits. Their complexity lies in the high quality of the fabrics and impeccable tailoring. Attention to details and to decorative embroidery is of paramount importance. This season we decided to minimize the colorful tones of the new collection in order to show the beauty and magnificence of every little detail of hand-embroidered ornaments. Black and white colors become a perfect duo for seamstresses to play with textures, introduce the delicate laces, and show the diversity of embroidery. All these elements set the mood of the collection.

One of the main stylistic approaches of the new collection is lacemaking techniques – from decorative ornaments made with Krestetskaya Stitch and Vologda laces to creating an entire piece by mixing these techniques. The collection includes lace collars adorned with beads, embroidery, white ribbons from Vologda lace. During the creation of a new collection, our seamstresses obtained one of the oldest traditional lacemaking called tatting, which can now be produced at the atelier of our Fashion house. The texture of several shirts of the collection is achieved by lace ornaments – lace strips of different patterns are stitched together into a single fabric; lace details in the form of roses, floral ornaments are implemented into the texture of the fabric. The collection also includes lace underwear created by using the technique of combining various lace, as well as quilted bras with lace inserts.

Fabrics and colors: silk, wool, linen, crepe, lace, Krestetskaya Stitch, hand-knitted Vologda laces, leather. Monochrome color palette – black and white, the duo is delicately diversified by other color accents such as powdery pink, red, and violet.

Krestetskaya Stitch: The craft appeared in the Novgorod province in 1860, when a peasant woman began using the soaked in water flax straw to make white fabric for tablecloths, valances (descending frill, fringe), towels and other items that served to decorate the house. Unique patterns of the Krestetsky stitch are created from plain hand-woven natural fabrics, by pruning, pulling, and further weaving of diagonal strands. Based on the ornament, typical for the craft –clear geometric shapes – the fashion House developed the designer drawings, which formed the basis of decorative elements of several pieces, among them: a black linen apron with open-work fringe and an ornated lace element in the middle, a collar embroidered with ornaments that imitates the letters of the name ULYANA, black and white cropped shirts with plenty of Krestetskaya embroidery- on the front and the back, on collar and sleeves.

Direction: Ulyana Sergeenko
Photo: Nick Sushkevich
Video Production: aecreates
Models Casting: Carina Utegenova
Hair: Marina Roy, Konstantin Kochegov
Make-up: Alena Moiseeva
Moscow , 2020 4, Granatniy lane, 123001
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