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DEFILE AZZARO COUTURE & ATELIERS

by pascal iakovou
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The flamboyant sensuousness of the Azzaro female has stood the test of time, and this season the Brand celebrates the woman of this new world: a liberated, assertive epicurean Amazon who draws strength on her uniqueness. Wreathed in mystery, the designs cultivate a retro-futurist aesthetic where structure and movement are used to delineate plays on light and shadow, opacity and transparency, matte and shine. Combining the Brand’s festive, sensuous Couture references with a one-of-a-kind universe straight out of another constellation, the collection explores a fleshy, graphic futurist flora with generous volumes and the illusion of simplicity. The tailoring is relentless, the waistline high and nipped-in, the V-necks open and assertive, the sleeves low-cut. The sleeves offer a number of effects: here balloon-shaped to accentuate the build, there a more fluid pagoda shape to cover the hands or reveal the shoulders. Feminine in its essence, the dress remains the key piece of this collection. Long or extra-short, the dress is adorned with ruching, draping or sunray pleats, with cut-outs that subtly reveal the body’s curves, made more exquisite there with a zip and a constellation of beads and crystals. This elegance also appears in the design of trousers, of which the legs are adorned with a succession of flounces or straight-cut black satin enhanced with pleats; or in the jewellery pieces, featuring irregular crystal stones. The opacity of a long double-breasted coat in wool broadcloth and silky eco-fur interacts with the daintiness of diaphanous chiffon, mesh embroidered with crystals or aluminium-laminated leather. In the image of otherworldly foliage, fine embroidery – in metal beads, crystalline stones or sequins – is irregularly sprinkled across the designs, providing a precious sparkle that enhances the shine of a leather-effect laminate, crepe, satin or jersey, one of the emblematic materials of the Azzaro brand. This light, captured by the omnipresence of gold and silver, is enhanced by the depth of the black and punctuated with flamboyant colours such as crimson, purple and cobalt yellow. The men’s wardrobe, driven by the same inspiration, echoes this new world with its flawless cuts brightened by incandescent lurex, straps embroidered with imaginary marine flora in beads and metal, celestial fringed embroideries, or jacquard featuring abstract patterns inspired by the moon’s relief, entirely embroidered with charcoal grey stones. This collection travels between the past and the future in a new world where the attitude is liberated and the sophistication iconoclastic.

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