Home ModeFashion Week LUISA BECCARIA AW19-20 COUTURE PRESENTATION / THE ALCHEMY OF LIGHTNESS

LUISA BECCARIA AW19-20 COUTURE PRESENTATION / THE ALCHEMY OF LIGHTNESS

by pascal iakovou
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The Alchemy of Lightness

Couture Capsule AW19-20


Luisa and her daughter Lucilla would rather not even put it in a defined and finalised seasonal dimension.
Luisa Beccaria chooses the path of lightness for her couture collection 2019, which she presents in Paris, in the halls of the eighteenth-century Hôtel de Gesvres, the sophisticated home of a pair of avid collectors and aesthetes. A collection that becomes a hymn to creative freedom and a distinctly autonomous statement.

The common thread is a significant lightness, full of suggestions, like the one told by Italo Calvino in his memorable work « American Lessons. »

The morphological structures of the dresses, almost all dedicated to the evening, remain important, ample and built. They open like a corolla, make butterfly sleeves and semantic volumes veined with romanticism.

But the game becomes lighter and deeper at the same time, it turns into overlaps of tulle brodé and fans of geometric plissées that look like soft, wind-woven origami. The floral theme becomes atomized, melts as if it were perceived through a surface of water. The décor, the applications and the embroideries are omnipresent but they are told by subtraction, almost digging at the textile material, carving the texture, which make it impalpable and dynamic as never before. A kaleidoscope of ramages and leaves, delicate petals and buds that float in transparency on different levels, following a dream of féerique. There are also oriental motifs covered with Victorian fringes. Different layers of tulle in the shades of the sunset melt into each other and make poetic games…

The palette unfolds above all on a mosaic of blues and pale blue tones, as if filtered, continues in the mauve and glycine and laps the pinks ending in ivory and optical white. Do not miss the gold, a faded gold and poudré, alchemical binder and symbol of transformation. This collection mixes the natural Mediterranean themes dear to the Maison and inspirations taken from Castelluccio, the Sicilian residence of Luisa Beccaria, with the emblematic elegance of the Hotel de Gesvres. A past that deliberately loses its chronological connotations, to flow according to timeless poetic narratives, the magic of nature and suspended evocation, the spell of an instant that will never be the same as another

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