Jasmin Santanen proposed « Illustrious Seduction » for Fall Winter 2010-2011, a collection borrowing from impressionism a discreet and modern chic
Like a real fashion opera, the Finnish designer offered us three ballets of materials and silhouettes through the good society of the 19th century where the Jasmin Santanen woman plays with the codes of the retro chic and loves the exceptional materials.
Velvet, organza and tulle make up this collection in homage to Edgar Degas and revealing fluid, almost aerial silhouettes.
Velvet is the first ballet proposed. It is a structured and worked velvet that reminds us of the great evenings at the Opera. One of the most brilliant ideas of this first ballet is the Lynx velvet, a magnificent grey velvet reminiscent of the lynx’s fur, which she offers us in stole, cape, coat and of course jacket. She accessorizes this lynx with white blouses in poplin or cotton and pants or cigarette skirt in black velvet or black wool, reinforcing the chic side of the material and noble. Velvet, the star material of this collection is multicolored: electric blue, black, pink, purple in a sublime purple coat, burgundy. The dresses are Empire almost Napoleonic, the sleeves are gathered, the velvet is dreamed draped.
The second ballet that is offered to us is that of materials: wool, organza, chiffon, lace, taffeta, tulle and silk satin blend and graze each other to better draw a woman resolutely retro and always perfectly dressed. Treated in a game of matt and shiny cuts, the wool can be seen in short or long dresses. With a metallic effect, it is modern and sculpts a perfect silhouette with a thin waist. Transparency and vaporous effect reveal a more seductive woman but always in search of a sure taste. The shoulders are flounced and the necklines are adorned with bows and other draped details.
And before leaving Jasmin Santanen offers us a last ballet more couture. Always from his favorite materials, the cuts are mastered, the strapless dresses highlight the head.
Everything in this collection, from the chosen location – one of the salons of the Westin Paris Hotel – to the materials used, reminds us of the hushed and delicate atmosphere of an exceptional evening at the Opera.
Photo credit: Guy Miraneau for Jasmin Santanen
Marie-Odile Radom
