Luis Buchinho’s Fall-Winter 2010-2011 collection celebrates the designer’s 20-year career. And on this occasion, he offers us his vision of the modern woman, a new contemporary and urban mermaid, very feminine and very highly perched. A real movie heroine who plays with assymetries and symmetrical outfits to create a new urban style, chic and refined but in very metallic tones. She is a chic woman who dares and assumes perfectly her choices and who does not limit herself to the use of classic pieces of the female dressing.
The Portuguese designer presents a collection that reinvents and reinterprets the classics of contemporary fashion in sober tones from black to gray gradient, both ascetic and chic. The false blacks are multiplied and we can see several pieces of oil, lead or olive or even blue alongside real intense blacks. Strong materials such as leather or wool are mixed with other more delicate materials such as muslin or lace.
Luis Buchniho reinterprets the Greek or Roman drape in dresses or tunics. This drape literally accompanies the walk. The panels of the dresses are lifted with the steps creating an almost evanescent air movement, sensualizing each step.
Lui Buchinho exposes us his vision of this contemporary woman with vaporous hair. He adds ruffles here and there, especially on the sides of some pants to give the illusion of dorsal fins. The lace dresses the pants by touches or combinations. The skirts become airy and always with ruffles, the vests become large and unstructured.
The good surprise of this fashion show was the presentation of an accessory line composed of shoes, bags, belts and leather bracelets.
The Luis Buchinho woman belts many of her outfits: from the small compact wool coat to the muslin or leather pieces, through the jumpsuit or the tunic. Far from breaking the ensemble, the designer lengthens and stretches the silhouette by belting long pieces or by equipping the woman with vertiginous heels.
The boots are divinely high and lengthen the silhouettes proposed by the designer. They can be worn open on the front or completely closed, strapped but always on stiletto heels. Luis Buchinho continues his urban mermaid streak by reinventing the boot and thigh-high boots. He adds leather ruffles on each side of the strapped and open front boot, again reinforcing the idea of dorsal fins.
The Luis Buchinho woman likes leather clutches and doesn’t hesitate to wear her bag as a clutch even if it’s not. The mermaid steering wheel is recalled on some models as a master word of the collection.
Yes, the Luis Buchinho Woman is a contemporary mermaid, but chic and trendy.
Marie-Odile RADOM
Photo Credit : PARIS AGENCY
