La vie est suspendue, elle se déroule ailleurs. Dans un manifeste-poème puissant, Benjamin Huseby et Serhat Işıkdévoilent leur collection SS26 « Imitation of Life », présentée le 2 juillet 2025 à Berlin dans le cadre d’une interventionimmersive soutenue par Intervention, Fashion Council Germany et Berlin Fashion Week. Ce n’est pas un simple défilé, mais un acte de survivance — artistique, morale et collective.
Dans ce quatrième opus pensé dans l’ombre d’un génocide, le duo ne cherche ni à représenter l’horreur ni à l’instrumentaliser. Au contraire, leur démarche consiste à saisir l’humain au bord de l’effondrement, à dessiner, dans les replis de la mode, une cartographie émotionnelle où la joie contrariée côtoie la mémoire traumatique.
Les vêtements, eux, rejouent les rites d’une enfance déchirée mais précieuse : costumes d’archives reconstitués, tenues de fête familiales, uniformes imaginaires, le tout dans une palette parfois clinique, parfois onirique. La coupe est protectrice ou rigide, selon qu’elle évoque l’étreinte ou la défense. La texture, elle, oscille entre tendresse (jersey, tulle, laine fine) et gravité (cuir, métal, doublures techniques).
La mise en scène, dirigée par MJ Harper pour les mouvements, et stylée par Ellie Grace Cumming, accompagne ce passage initiatique vers un autre soi. Les mannequins défilent comme des fantômes éveillés, présents absents, spectres poétiques dans une chorégraphie hantée mais lucide.
« Nous sommes des somnambules, sans sommeil. Des fantômes. Comme si nous vivions dans une imitation de la vie. »
En intégrant des éléments autobiographiques (cassettes de famille, récits personnels) et en se réappropriant des formes rituelles de la mémoire (baptêmes, communions, deuils), GmbH bâtit une collection intimement politique, sans jamais céder à la facilité démonstrative. C’est une mode-lamentation, mais aussi une mode-réparation, qui laisse entrevoir une sortie possible de la stupeur.
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Imitation of Life – GmbH SS26 2 juillet 2025 – Berlin Fashion Week Creative Direction : Benjamin Huseby & Serhat Işık Music : Simon Parris | Movement : MJ Harper Hair : Beppe D’Elia & Beautick | Casting : Affa Osman gmbhofficial.com
