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Ulyana Sergeenko Couture FW1819

by pascal iakovou
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Ulyana Sergeenko Couture
Fall-Winter 2018/2019Ulyana Sergeenko Fall-Winter 2018/2019 Couture show took place at the Russian Embassy in Paris.

Fashion is storytelling for Ulyana Sergeenko: she believes in the narrative powers of an outfit. Crossing eras with a liberal imagination, Ulyana collects suggestions and inspirations that help her tell how she sees the world of today, adding atmosphere and nuance.

This season Ulyana Sergeenko pays homage to the icon of the First Lady. Always at the side of their presidential husband, women as diverse as Raisa Gorbacheva, Nina Khrushcheva, Jackie Kennedy, Michelle Obama, but also Lady Diana, are a symbol of progress, kindness and generosity. By using their female powers and by making their voices heard, softly, first ladies can effectively ignite change.

Change is exactly what the Ulyana Sergeenko woman is after. She is now stronger, bolder, more confident, with a sharper focus on her life goal: using beauty to make the world a better and kinder place. Drawing historical parallels between pivotal first ladies, Ulyana fantasizes on how they would look today. She devises a strict and dignified look, keeping a grain of irony in the background. There is an idea of moderation and restraint in the business suits made of fitted elongated jackets paired with wide trousers, midi skirts and precise knee-length shorts. Manually jotted folds turn apparently plain pieces into a tour de force of sartorial prowess. Embroidered dresses, patchwork fur coats, roomy coats with pelerines make a decisive statement, with a hint of ladylike drama. At night, the first lady shines in all her thoughtful and graceful femininity, dressed in flowing light silk gowns, decorated corsets and skirts with dip-dye effects. Carnations recur as a symbol and a decor, while bows are multiplied ironically.

The mix of strictness and softness is underlined by the choice of shimmering silk, crepe, mesh, taffeta, and severe suiting wools, with mink fur, velvet and satin-duchess adding opulence. Colors are pure and solid: pink, blue, red, brown, green, milky white. Accessories make the First Lady: leather gloves in different lengths to carry handbags and small clutches in classic or unexpected hues matching rounded toe shoes with small heels; leather belts cinching the waist; colored cat’s eye glasses. Light brown, yellow, blue and green fur panama hats further set the mood. This season, Ulyana Sergeenko worked with the jewelers of the House of Faidee, who are known for the world’s rarest collection of Burmese rubies. Collection consists devising pearl necklaces finished with ruby cabochon clasps framed with a scattering of diamonds, ruby earrings and a ruby brooch with a playful bow.

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