{"id":2066513,"date":"2026-07-28T14:37:50","date_gmt":"2026-07-28T12:37:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/2026\/07\/28\/when-the-perfumer-starts-with-the-structure\/"},"modified":"2026-07-28T14:44:51","modified_gmt":"2026-07-28T12:44:51","slug":"when-the-perfumer-starts-with-the-structure","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/2026\/07\/28\/when-the-perfumer-starts-with-the-structure\/","title":{"rendered":"When the perfumer starts with the structure"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

BDK Parfums is launching its fourth collection, featuring three absolutes centered around a single base note: wood. Not as a comforting note, but as a framework\u2014what Jordi Fern\u00e1ndez calls, with a precision worth noting, \u201ctexture and structure in perfumery, just as fabrics are for fashion.\u201d <\/p>\n\n

Ten years ago, David Benedek founded a perfume atelier in Paris whose uniqueness lay less in its niche positioning than in its method. His studies at the Institut Fran\u00e7ais de la Mode had trained him to interpret materials\u2014olfactory silk, velvety notes, powdery accents\u2014before even smelling them. The Studio Collection, launched on May 18, 2026, takes this concept to its logical conclusion: each absolute is inspired by a fabric. Stellar Silk<\/em> is inspired by silk, Oud Paradisio<\/em> by leather embroidered with purple stones, and Silver Ceremony<\/em> by sequins. <\/p>\n\n

Fern\u00e1ndez, the in-house perfumer at Impadia<\/em>, works at Givaudan with a palette of raw materials selected under the Orpur™ certification\u2014the house\u2019s \u201cgrands crus,\u201d individually chosen for their traceability and cutting-edge olfactory profiles. For Stellar Silk<\/em>, he selected two distinct Venezuelan tonka bean absolutes: one with notes of warm tobacco and praline, the other with a toasted character and hints of dried cocoa and hay. The tonka bean, harvested in the Amazon exclusively by natural fall\u2014a guarantee, as the technical sheet specifies, of an aroma at its peak\u2014functions here not as a generic gourmand accord, but rather as a textural note, in dialogue with Iris pallida<\/em> butter from the Landes region, obtained through molecular hydrodistillation of its rhizome. <\/p>\n\n

Sidebar \u2014 Extraction Details:<\/em> The Madagascar vanilla CO\u2082 extract in the collection is obtained using supercritical CO\u2082 rather than solvents, a process that preserves a more almond-like aroma while minimizing the tobacco and rum notes characteristic of the classic absolute. This precision in extraction alters the perceived balance of the base note. <\/p>\n\n

The choice of wood as a common architectural element in all three creations stems from an aesthetic decision championed by Fern\u00e1ndez in terms of tactile logic: Australian sandalwood for silk\u2014\u201crich, creamy, and fluid\u201d\u2014, Thai oud for leather\u2014\u201can animalic character\u201d that complements the \u201crichness and resilience\u201d of leather\u2014and Moroccan Atlas cedar for metal. \u201cI chose woods because they embody texture and structure in perfumery,\u201d he says. This statement has technical implications: wood is the aromatic class that provides a fragrance\u2019s longevity, its skin-clinging quality, and its temporal dimension. By assigning wood a structural role analogous to that of fabric, Fern\u00e1ndez is redefining the vocabulary of fragrance composition. <\/p>\n\n

In Silver Ceremony<\/em>, the \u201cmetallic\u201d effect is not achieved through classic metallic notes but through a combination of Moroccan cedar, Spanish cistus labdanum (cold-distilled to blend balsamic freshness with amber warmth), and an exclusive Givaudan molecule \u2014 Azurone™, an ozonic marine note with an aldehydic touch \u2014 which, together with the radiance of Italian citrus fruits (Calabrian bergamot harvested at early maturity, lemon cold-extracted before molecular distillation, green mandarin), recreates through olfactory synthesis the sensation of light striking metal. It is a calculation, not a metaphor. <\/p>\n\n

The bottles\u201450 ml and 100 ml\u2014come in a black sleeve with bright silver hot stamping and a lacquer finish on both the inside and outside. The color of each sleeve (smoky brown, purple, blue) is chosen to evoke synesthesia, not to follow trends. <\/p>\n\n

The question posed by the Studio Collection is not that of fashion as a medium of communication for perfumery\u2014that is a familiar concept. The question lies elsewhere: Can wood be treated in perfumery the same way fabric is treated in fashion\u2014as a structural element, rather than mere decoration? What Fern\u00e1ndez has created here resembles less a thematic collection than a demonstration of method. <\/p>\n\n

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BDK Parfums is launching its fourth collection, featuring three absolutes centered around a single base note: wood. Not as a comforting note, but as a framework\u2014what Jordi Fern\u00e1ndez calls, with…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2049487,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[30114],"tags":[79962,79961,79964,79963,79965],"class_list":["post-2066513","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-beauty-and-perfumes","tag-fragrances-and-fashion","tag-givaudan-orpur","tag-jordi-fernandez-perfumer","tag-niche-perfume-absolute","tag-sandalwood-oud-and-cedar-perfume"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2066513","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2066513"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2066513\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2049487"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2066513"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2066513"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2066513"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}