{"id":2064381,"date":"2026-06-24T12:21:04","date_gmt":"2026-06-24T10:21:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/2026\/06\/24\/at-setchu-the-spring-summer-2027-collection-is-woven-like-a-fishing-net\/"},"modified":"2026-06-24T12:25:00","modified_gmt":"2026-06-24T10:25:00","slug":"at-setchu-the-spring-summer-2027-collection-is-woven-like-a-fishing-net","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/2026\/06\/24\/at-setchu-the-spring-summer-2027-collection-is-woven-like-a-fishing-net\/","title":{"rendered":"At Setchu, the Spring\/Summer 2027 collection is woven like a fishing net"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

For his Spring\/Summer 2027 collection, Satoshi Kuwata isn\u2019t embroidering\u2014he\u2019s tying knots. Setchu, the Parisian fashion house he has led since its founding, makes the sailor\u2019s knot the centerpiece of the season\u2014a technical technique borrowed from fishermen and adapted for the body. <\/em><\/p>\n\n

A knot from the open sea<\/h2>\n\n

Setchu\u2019s Spring\/Summer 2027 collection is built around a network of leather cords in various colors, tied using a technique the brand calls the \u201cJapanese square knot.\u201d This woven pattern envelops the silhouette, sometimes leading it, sometimes seeming to follow it like a second, braided skin. The resulting pieces\u2014jackets crisscrossed with netting, dresses encircled by cords\u2014belong to a wardrobe that Setchu describes as largely genderless: the same knots, the same pieces, for silhouettes that are no longer defined by the wearer\u2019s gender. <\/p>\n\n

The choice of this motif is not arbitrary. Kuwata traces its origin to a memory from a trip: the waters of Gabon, where fishing remains a bountiful subsistence activity. In this interpretation, the knot is not a fashion ornament but a survival tool elevated to the status of a stylistic signature\u2014a way of incorporating a utilitarian gesture into the vocabulary of clothing without erasing its original roughness. Setchu, a brand founded by a designer trained in both Japanese tailoring and European techniques, and winner of the 2023 LVMH Prize for Young Designers, has built its reputation on this kind of fusion between two disparate forms of craftsmanship. This season, the sailor\u2019s knot is the most accomplished expression of this fusion. <\/p>\n\n

Fractions and Arithmetic<\/h2>\n\n

The rest of the collection continues this theme of visible structure. Rectangular pieces of jersey are held taut by circular cutouts that pierce a top or dress\u2014a system that hugs the body while revealing, in an almost diagrammatic way, the garment\u2019s construction. A slit accentuates the asymmetry of a black dress and, when laid flat, reveals its own arithmetic: the cut is no longer concealed; it becomes legible, almost didactic. Elsewhere, another opening conceals a fastening system beneath silk panels, its mechanism deliberately obscure\u2014the same collection that exposes its construction on one side conceals it on the other, like two answers to the same question. <\/p>\n\n

Armor for Uncertain Times<\/h2>\n\n

The pieces inspired by Kuwata\u2019s travels are covered in places with scales\u2014delicate fabrics assembled into a contemporary armor: fluid, protective, but never rigid. This is undoubtedly where the season\u2019s most interesting concept lies\u2014not in any single garment, but in the idea that knitwear and knots can function as a flexible shield, a form of protection that does not sacrifice grace. The net, the collection\u2019s primary motif, thus becomes a double-edged metaphor: it holds things in, yet it also lets light pass through its mesh. This trend toward \u201cshield-garments\u201d is not an isolated occurrence in the June 2026 collection schedule; Setchu embraces it without ever naming it, preferring the metaphor of the net to that of military armor. <\/p>\n\n

Setchu doesn’t say what this armor protects against. She lets the knot do the work: holding, enveloping, and, when necessary, coming undone. <\/p>\n\n

Detail \u2014 The network of cords that gives structure to several pieces in the collection is assembled using the technique known as the \u201cJapanese square knot,\u201d a fastening method directly inspired by traditional fishing techniques observed by Satoshi Kuwata on the coast of Gabon.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n

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For his Spring\/Summer 2027 collection, Satoshi Kuwata isn\u2019t embroidering\u2014he\u2019s tying knots. Setchu, the Parisian fashion house he has led since its founding, makes the sailor\u2019s knot the centerpiece of the…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2063500,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[30432,30776,52709],"tags":[78661,78663,78662,78664],"class_list":["post-2064381","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion-week-en","category-mode-en","category-thefashion","tag-genderless-mode","tag-japanese-square-knot","tag-satoshi-kuwata","tag-setchu-collection"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2064381","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2064381"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2064381\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2063500"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2064381"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2064381"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2064381"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}