Eymeric Fran\u00e7ois’ eagerly-awaited show on July 9 brought Paris haute couture week to a fitting close. The show took place in the nave of the Palais Brongniart on the Place de la Bourse, almost following on from Zvonko Markovic’s show, which preceded it by barely fifteen minutes. But Monsieur Fran\u00e7ois was clearly confident enough to go straight after the Serbian designer, for he had meticulously orchestrated a veritable procession for an awake but surprised public. Like a classical opera, the show was composed of three acts, each with its own dramatic quota. <\/p>\n
The first act lived up to all our expectations, unveiling the new ‘Noir D\u00e9sirs’ Winter 2015-2016 collection. The signature of this collection is its composition of bi-chrome dresses and ensembles: Black is continually mixed with color. At first, cadmium yellow was timidly added to a black ensemble in the form of accessories: glove, belt, feathers. Gradually, it became an integral part of a dress, taking over from the darkness. This pattern was repeated with a slightly fluoridated turquoise, then a royal blue tending towards the electricity of Klein blue, to end with a mauve gradient stretching to orange via red. <\/p>\n
The color duos are full of freedom and spirit, because as the collection’s name suggests, it’s all about the deep black that stirs up summer color. An impertinent choice for a winter collection. Nevertheless, the materials chosen (velvet, silk, fine chiffon) and the volumes (imperious and ample) don’t betray the spirit of the season. The waist is always marked at the waistband, and the neckline and d\u00e9collet\u00e9 are always highlighted, either by being uncovered or by being impregnated with a collar or ribbon. In this way, the simplicity of the two-tone gives way to a sophisticated stylization and a feminine silhouette worked down to the smallest detail. Eymeric Fran\u00e7ois remains true to himself and his vision of the woman, while imposing a rediscovery of the use of color. <\/p>\n\n\t\t