Clothing suited for the needs and speed of the concrete jungle. A military attitude filtered through a feminine sensibility. Girls that dress like boys. Marni Winter Edition 2013 is urban and tough. <\/p>\n
Precision replaces the need for decoration. The collection is like a system of elements that can be assembled and reassembled according to one’s own whims. The call for individual interpretation puts the wearer to the fore. <\/p>\n
The essentials look like they were subtracted from a man’s wardrobe: the double-breasted blazer and coat; slouchy trousers; the parka; the duffle-coat. Sportswear adds a layer of functionalism, or is sliced into utilitarian detail: a scarf-hood; deep pockets. The zip-up anorak is the contemporary equivalent of an army uniform. <\/p>\n
Strictness is subverted through contrasts of tailored and deconstructed, masculine and feminine. Boyish shirts are worn under suits; pleated skirts are paired with sporty blousons; a pair of suit sleeves is attached to a crinkled lining dress; printed sweatshirt tops and skirts have an easy sophistication. Tops foil covered sheepskin jackets and metallic leather pieces are a deliberately outr\u00e9 touch. Fur is used with graphic sensibility and the function to provide warmth: a little cape, a collar, a gilet. <\/p>\n
Prints are dogstooth, bold stripes, overblown florals as ambiguous as a bleach splash. The color palette is feminine but moody: tones of burgundy, petrol, charcoal and midnight blue are accented with notes of pink, mustard and metallic flashes of copper and gold. Fabrics are firm: twisted wool, technical polyester, cotton gabardine. Utilitarian accessories include double-strap boots, fringed loafers, chelsea boots and then oversized totes and clutches with embossed dogstooth motifs. Elasticated belts worn around the waist are a quick yet feminine accent. <\/p>\n\n\t\t