{"id":2004976,"date":"2011-07-10T18:36:35","date_gmt":"2011-07-10T16:36:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/2011\/07\/10\/smalto-ss2012-paris-fashion-week\/"},"modified":"2026-04-15T12:36:07","modified_gmt":"2026-04-15T10:36:07","slug":"smalto-ss2012-paris-fashion-week","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/2011\/07\/10\/smalto-ss2012-paris-fashion-week\/","title":{"rendered":"Smalto SS2012 Paris Fashion Week"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><iframe width=\"560\" height=\"349\" src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/7msI8ikEu0c\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><strong>The Smalto couture man<\/strong><br \/>\nFor this Spring Summer 2012 show, the Smalto house decided to mix ready-to-wear and couture. The show was preceded by a dozen exceptional, one-of-a-kind pieces made in-house at Smalto, the only men&#8217;s label registered with the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. A collection full of finesse and restraint. Of particular note was the finale, in which Alexandre Cunha was accompanied by a child model, both wearing three-piece shawl-collar tuxedos. This same finale earned us the honor of having our video broadcast on ABC&#8217;s Good Morning America, and over 40,000 views.    <\/p>\n<p><strong>A collection giving pride of place to leathers.  <\/strong><br \/>\nWith the complicity of the ateliers, Youn Chong Back infuses exotic leathers with his acute sense of modernity. Such meticulous craftsmanship that there&#8217;s not a single excess thickness or seam to be seen on this kimono tuxedo in plunged lambskin, whose collar is inlaid with a strip of ostrich leg; on this summer trench coat in velvet goatskin with crocodile inserts; and on this perfecto, whose body is cut from ostrich, the armholes from narrow ostrich legs, and the lower back from quilted plunged lambskin. Even the classic shawl-collar tuxedo reinterprets this treatment of skins, drawing inspiration from their relief with embroidery on the edge of the lapels, while a hand thread encrusted with black microbeads draws crocodile scales on a military jacket. Underneath, a shirt with a broken collar and bib, whose remarkable bias pleating required long lengths of cotton. The luxury of not counting, not showing. Just to suggest.     <\/p>\n<p>The 70&#8217;s influences are expressed in the cuts and lengths in a minimal, sharp mood.<br \/>\nFirst, there are the materials: silks, cottons, linens and blends of skins &#8211; exotic leathers and smooth leathers &#8211; that give a grain, a texture to the look.<br \/>\nThe structure: borrowed from made-to-measure, it&#8217;s based on the traditional Smalto shoulder, with its slightly rising line and accentuated roulotte. And the geometry of the yokes and topstitching that underline the pattern: a seam follows the profile of the lapels on a jacket, while on the tuxedo version, a piece of satin acts as a trompe-l&#8217;oeil; hand-effect stitches punctuate the martingale on an officer&#8217;s jacket; double topstitching runs along the lapel of a collar, the cuffs and pockets of a short pea coat&#8230; Always the same tailoring signature that gives the silhouette its poise, construction, proportions and elegance.  <\/p>\n<p>There are vintage allusions in shirts with paisley prints, kinetic patterns and almost psychedelic flowers. But the cut &#8211; small collar, small cuff &#8211; makes perfect sense in a contemporary men&#8217;s wardrobe. Even the natural palette, infused with blue tending towards green, plum, wine lees, cigar or chocolate brown, reflects a muted luxury. In tune with the times and Smalto&#8217;s fundamentals.   <\/p>\n<p><object width=\"600\" height=\"450\"><param name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&amp;lang=en-us&amp;page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fluxsureparis%2Fsets%2F72157626968658923%2Fshow%2F&amp;page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fluxsureparis%2Fsets%2F72157626968658923%2F&amp;set_id=72157626968658923&amp;jump_to=\"\/><param name=\"movie\" value=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/apps\/slideshow\/show.swf?v=104087\"\/><param name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\"\/><embed type=\"application\/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/apps\/slideshow\/show.swf?v=104087\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&amp;lang=en-us&amp;page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fluxsureparis%2Fsets%2F72157626968658923%2Fshow%2F&amp;page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fluxsureparis%2Fsets%2F72157626968658923%2F&amp;set_id=72157626968658923&amp;jump_to=\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\"\/><\/object><\/p>\n<p>Backstages<br \/>\n<object width=\"600\" height=\"450\"><param name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&amp;lang=en-us&amp;page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fluxsureparis%2Fsets%2F72157626958025581%2Fshow%2F&amp;page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fluxsureparis%2Fsets%2F72157626958025581%2F&amp;set_id=72157626958025581&amp;jump_to=\"\/><param name=\"movie\" value=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/apps\/slideshow\/show.swf?v=104087\"\/><param name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\"\/><embed type=\"application\/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/apps\/slideshow\/show.swf?v=104087\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&amp;lang=en-us&amp;page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fluxsureparis%2Fsets%2F72157626958025581%2Fshow%2F&amp;page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fluxsureparis%2Fsets%2F72157626958025581%2F&amp;set_id=72157626958025581&amp;jump_to=\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\"\/><\/object><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Smalto couture man For this Spring Summer 2012 show, the Smalto house decided to mix ready-to-wear and couture. The show was preceded by a dozen exceptional, one-of-a-kind pieces made&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[30432,52709],"tags":[57794,52716,57793,54120,55593,57792,57789,57795],"class_list":["post-2004976","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fashion-week-en","category-thefashion","tag-alexandre-cunha","tag-fashion-week","tag-good-morning-america","tag-paris-fashion-week","tag-smalto","tag-spring-summer-2012","tag-ss2012","tag-youn-chong-back"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2004976","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2004976"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2004976\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2004976"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2004976"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2004976"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}