{"id":1995451,"date":"2009-12-07T22:10:58","date_gmt":"2009-12-07T21:10:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/2009\/12\/07\/i-bureaux-de-style-e-la-ricerca-di-tendenza\/"},"modified":"2026-04-15T16:23:53","modified_gmt":"2026-04-15T14:23:53","slug":"i-bureaux-de-style-e-la-ricerca-di-tendenza","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/en\/2009\/12\/07\/i-bureaux-de-style-e-la-ricerca-di-tendenza\/","title":{"rendered":"I Bureaux de Style e la Ricerca di Tendenza"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Molto spesso ci si domanda cosa porti le passerelle di marchi tanto diversi ad assomigliarsi molto per atmosfere, temi e colori. Non \u00e8 naturalmente opera del caso, n\u00e8 di una geniale lontana intuizione. Ogni brand elabora gli orientamenti comuni secondo la propria estetica e la propria filosofia, ma la coerenza di fondo che poi orienter\u00e0 di conseguenza tutto il mercato in maniera discendente \u00e8 opera di ben definiti &#8220;manovratori&#8221;: i <em>bureaux de style<\/em>, o studi di tendenza se vogliamo tradurre impropriamente.<\/p>\n<p>Strutture peculiari al contesto francese, la cui storia il sociologo Thierry Maillet ha ripercorso in occasione di una conferenza presso il prestigioso Institut Fran\u00e7ais de la Mode in presenza anche di illustri rappresentanti dei pi\u00f9 famosi studi del settore. Un percorso affascinante, che prende il via nella Francia dell&#8217;immediato dopoguerra, poverissima di tutto e pertanto anelante di prodotti e consumi. Gli Stati Uniti furono rapidi a captare questa fame di immagini e stile, e immediatamente alla fine della guerra cominciarono a distribuire i film hollywoodiani in Francia con enorme successo.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-3668 lazyload\" title=\"6762412\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/67624122-227x300.jpg\" alt=\"6762412\" width=\"227\" height=\"300\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/67624122-227x300.jpg 227w, https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/67624122.jpg 300w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 227px) 100vw, 227px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 227px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 227\/300;\" \/>In 1945, the magazine Elle ad opera of Helene Lazareff was launched, coming from Harper&#8217;s Bazaar and convinced of the necessity of a female publication of style. The cover of Elle da subito si fanno promotrici di una nuova immagine della donna pi\u00f9 libera e dinamica, in pantaloni o piedi scalzi, accompagnandone l&#8217;evoluzione e la liberalizzazione.<\/p>\n<p>Anche l&#8217;industria vive un momento di estremo fermento e desiderio di cambiamento, per rilanciare la produzione e rispondere alla domanda crescente di beni di consumo. Lo statista Jean Fourasti\u00e9 promuove allora l&#8217;iniziativa delle &#8220;missioni di produttivit\u00e0&#8221; insieme agli Stati Uniti: settore per settore, dalla meccanica alla moda alla stampa, i rappresentanti di tutti i livelli partono per qualche settimana intensiva nella corrispondente industria americana per apprentice e riportarne il modello produttivo. The initiative met with great success and France began to raise its issues with enthusiasm.<\/p>\n<p>For our history is the mission of the &#8217;55 to represent the trend: partono giornaliste di Elle, radio, stampa, stile, tessile &#8230; e al loro ritorno subito vengono create le strutture che poi daranno corpo all&#8217;intero sistema della moda: il Comitato delle Industrie della Moda ad organizzare gli attori del settore, e il Comitato Francese del Colore, che anni prima di Pantone aveva il compito di armonizzare il colore per l&#8217;uso nei divers campi.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-3657 lazyload\" title=\"2\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/21-300x292.jpg\" alt=\"2\" width=\"300\" height=\"292\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/21-300x292.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/21.jpg 500w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/292;\" \/><\/p>\n<p>At the same time, the mission brings to light the importance of style consulting for a variety of industries with the need to restructure: in 1957, the first Bureau de Style was founded under the name of Relation Textile, whose first client was a Swiss company that wanted to improve its image in order to restructure as a general distributor. Siamo ben lontani dalla moda dunque, ma la genialit\u00e0 sta nell&#8217;aver compreso come nella consulenza e nello stile stesse la chiave per migliorare la produttivit\u00e0 indipendentemente dal settore.<\/p>\n<p>Negli anni successivi vengono fondati gli altri bureaux, ma l&#8217;elemento pi\u00f9 interessante sta nella loro posizione geografica: non soltanto tutti a Parigi, ma anche nello stesso quartiere, l&#8217;uno dietro l&#8217;angolo dell&#8217;altro, e a stretto contatto anche con le sedi delle principali riviste di moda e lifestyle nonch\u00e8 le organizzazioni di settore. The strength of these studies lies in the proximity of their position, in their coercivity and esteem in the predictions and in the orientation of the tendencies: despite their close cooperation, they could not exist without each other, and it is from the assiduous frequentation that the common feeling arises, which embodies the greatest quality.<\/p>\n<p>In the same way, they develop a true and proper work methodology that, although diversified according to the orientation and the client of each one, has a common base that associates the importance of communication, market studies, sociology related to the economy and to style to the creation. Nel frattempo le industrie si fanno sempre pi\u00f9 pressanti nel loro costante bisogno di consulenza e orientamento, e i bureaux de style sanno coglierne il potenziale e tradurre la metodologia di lavoro per rispondere ad interlocutori pi\u00f9 diffusi. Ecco allora che avviene la transazione da consulente a vero e proprio editore di pubblicazioni di orientamento e tendenza. It was 1972 when Promostyl launched its first <em>booklet<\/em>, dedicated to color and presented 18 months in advance to give the industry time to put the suggestions into practice. Since then many others have followed, and all the offices have been launched on the road. Con l&#8217;evoluzione del consumo era diventato indispensabile essere in grado di parlare ad un pubblico pi\u00f9 vasto e interessato, su scala pi\u00f9 ampia sino a livello internazionale.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-3660 lazyload\" title=\"1\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/14-300x212.jpg\" alt=\"1\" width=\"300\" height=\"212\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/14-300x212.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/14.jpg 624w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/212;\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Gli anni &#8217;80 vedono l&#8217;apice di questa espansione internazionale e il conseguente coinvolgimento nella struttura dei bureaux della figura dell&#8217;agente, rappresentante delle pubblicazioni di tendenza.<\/p>\n<p>In the following decades, the markets have experienced crises, contractions and expansion, but the style offices have been able to anticipate and respond to all these changes in order to preserve their role as &#8220;trusted advisors&#8221;. Anzi, soprattutto in tempi di crisi \u00e8 ad essi che le aziende si rivolgono ansiose, poich\u00e8 pi\u00f9 che mai diventa necessario orientare la produzione in maniera puntuale.<\/p>\n<p>Oggi inoltre, con l&#8217;avvento di internet e la diffusione universale della caccia allo stile, alla tendenza sino a farne dei veri e propri corsi universitari, i grandi parigini che diedero origine alla disciplina resistono caparbi e si adattano aprendo pagine su facebook e twitter, nonch\u00e8 offerrendo servizi di consulenza a distanza e online.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-3662 lazyload\" title=\"3\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/31-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"3\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/31-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/12\/31.jpg 424w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" src=\"data:image\/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB3aWR0aD0iMSIgaGVpZ2h0PSIxIiB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciPjwvc3ZnPg==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/200;\" \/><\/p>\n<p>A mali estremi estremi rimedi, ma nella miriade confusa di offerte odierne restano i bureaux francesi a guidare e dare l&#8217;esempio &#8211; e il mito non accenna a spegnersi. Gli altri Paesi sono stati rapidi a prendere esempio ma <em>tendancenon research<\/em>avrebbe potuto nascere se non in Francia, e per quanto costi ammetterlo rimaniamo loro debitori fondamentali di stile.<\/p>\n<p>Tanto di cappello dunque &#8211; o meglio, <em>chapeau<\/em> come si dice a Parigi.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Molto spesso ci si domanda cosa porti le passerelle di marchi tanto diversi ad assomigliarsi molto per atmosfere, temi e colori. Non \u00e8 naturalmente opera del caso, n\u00e8 di una&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[30090],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1995451","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-luxsure-international-en"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>I Bureaux de Style e la Ricerca di Tendenza - Luxsure<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.luxsure.fr\/2009\/12\/07\/i-bureaux-de-style-e-la-ricerca-di-tendenza\/\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"pascal iakovou\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.luxsure.fr\\\/2009\\\/12\\\/07\\\/i-bureaux-de-style-e-la-ricerca-di-tendenza\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.luxsure.fr\\\/2009\\\/12\\\/07\\\/i-bureaux-de-style-e-la-ricerca-di-tendenza\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"pascal iakovou\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.luxsure.fr\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/e3e28d08083f4cbc258957c924e39423\"},\"headline\":\"I Bureaux de Style e la Ricerca di Tendenza\",\"datePublished\":\"2009-12-07T21:10:58+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2026-04-15T14:23:53+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.luxsure.fr\\\/2009\\\/12\\\/07\\\/i-bureaux-de-style-e-la-ricerca-di-tendenza\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":987,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.luxsure.fr\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.luxsure.fr\\\/2009\\\/12\\\/07\\\/i-bureaux-de-style-e-la-ricerca-di-tendenza\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.luxsure.fr\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2009\\\/12\\\/67624122-227x300.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Luxsure International\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.luxsure.fr\\\/2009\\\/12\\\/07\\\/i-bureaux-de-style-e-la-ricerca-di-tendenza\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.luxsure.fr\\\/2009\\\/12\\\/07\\\/i-bureaux-de-style-e-la-ricerca-di-tendenza\\\/\",\"name\":\"I Bureaux de Style e la Ricerca di Tendenza - 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