ASAI AW23

by pascal iakovou
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ASAI AW23
London. February 20th 2023. For immediate release.

ASAI AW23 SHOWNOTES

“Can you take my breath away?”

In 1973 the Paris Peace Accords were signed under the ornate chandeliers in Paris. War is over but everywhere is a warzone. You go, Dahn Võ and hoist the chandeliers up again. It’s time to dress up-up and put on that gown. We all need decadence, right?

The coromandel lacquer screens in Coco Chanel’s apartment divide and conquer with its clouds and camellias. Fold them back and reveal. Stand behind them and conceal.

“Lacquer is my element, it is deep and all-consuming.”

It took 4,000 Anglo-French soldiers to destroy the Old Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan). Burnt to the ground. Looting for days. Porcelain, jade, gold and silk – scattered and dispersed everywhere. Its renderings and ruins reduced to a blue and white print.

When Visaya Hoffie fell from the subway train platform, she landed in a blanket of hot, hot pink. Order the Hot Wok padded. Get it whilst it’s hot. Here’s your spicy safe space.

Minimal, white, bleached. Is that chic? Or is it zen? The Yin to the Yang. Ornamentation is ratchet but “petite mains” are French and “savoir faire” (pronounced from the back of the throat) is European. Trace the Silk Road and the trading routes of the East India Company and you’ll find hands that can embroider, carve and sew.

Warm in her fake astrakhan, standing on the streets. In ballooning silks, she’s a freak between the sheets. Where’s the party at? She’s definitely on the list.

It’s time to take up space. Flip the pannier skirt. Overturn the opera coat. Blow up the sleeves and let the fringing fall, fall, fall. The corsets are fierce, but the skirt is fraying and fragile.

Wear the Numchuk on top. Or have it hanging off your arms. You can take that bag through airport security. Hold onto it for dear life.

Decadere! To fall!

What comes up must come down. Aren’t we all in freefall?

I don’t believe in destinations

“It’s been a constant push and pull between trying to find my place in the industry. At a time when the world was going through so much chaos, I was seeking calm. I needed the time to ground myself and I was fortunate to take that time off and come back and still have an immense amount of support. That time off really allowed me to refill my tank. This is something I want to commit to for the rest of my life and so the linear structure of the industry is something I want to dispel.

When all of my other pillars fell down, fashion became the pillar that pushed me forward and could really ground me, where I can put all my energy into. I want to work from calm, not chaos. I have my intentions. I want to dream bigger.”

A Sai Ta

Dedicated to Ba and Kim

SHOW CREDITS

Styling by Harry Lambert
Performance by Tsunania
Casting by Mischa at 11 Casting
Hair by Adam Garland sponsored by Authentic Beauty Concept
Headwear by James Pink
Print by Polly Scott
Jewellery by Simpson Ma
Make-up by Porsche Poon
Music by Miss Carrie Stack
Nails by Sylvie Macmillan
Shoes by Manolo Blahnik
Press Release by Susie Lau

Studio Team: Anna Baumgart, Ezra Spearpoint, Cerys Law, Polly Scott, Sayuri Bloom, Erica Mayt, Clark Rivera, Marta Arda lipinska, Mariko Okaguthi, Esme Ashley-Smith, August.

With thanks to: Joni Zhu, Mum,Lulu Kennedy, Raphaelle Moore,Varunesh Firoos Khan, Emmanuel Balogun,Choya Hung, Reza Hood, Jason Mui, Ashley Ta, Zephyr Sumption , Phoenix Sumption, Eben Sumption,Ryan Wohlgemut, Naomi Phillips, Scott Cruft, Neve Randal, Hayley Evans-Smith, Mica Hendricks, Julia Hopkins, Laureen Placide, Sadie J, Yuca Murakami, Olivia Gane, Miles Twist, Cathy Goswell, Cate Maiolini, Meg Piper, Sadie Lauder, Jose Albaladejo, Leanne Miller, Robbe Vermaete, Kirby Blythe, Amy O’Sullivan, Rita Skomnrova, Danilo Giangreco, Rosie Jones, Sharon Munoz Jimenez, Lidija Štokić, Joanna Stecheart, Ali Jamali, Danielle, Mimi, Chloe, Melissa, Victoria, Rachel Banjo, Selasie Ackuaka Joey Hon, Mia Vilvins, Olivia McDowell, Luz Giraldo, Margherita, Fabbro, Shani Mushington, Ratty Byebye, Viviane Melo, Dourane Foll, Alx Dabo

British Fashion Council, Blonstein, Authentic Beauty Concept, The Lobby London

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