by pascal iakovou
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What’s in the perfect wardrobe of a contemporary woman? Moving from that research Luisa Spagnoli distilled her ladylike fall/winter 2023-2024 collection, a celebration of unabashed femininity.

The designer and entrepreneur has her flair for ‘90s minimalism clash with a penchant for maximalist inflections to telegraph her strong, celebratory and unapologetic view on the glory of the women’s body.

Nocturnal creatures embedding their love for polished dressing into their wardrobes, Luisa Spagnoli’s muses are characterized by a dash of mischievous mystery as they trade the all-black runway at the Scuola Militare Teulié during Milan Fashion Week.

Hinged on primary colors and patterns befitting the perfect wardrobe, the collection features solids and tone-on-tones looks in sunflower yellow, coral red, orange, Klein blue, fuchsia, olive green and black, with leopard motifs incorporated as a timeless classic speaking of old-school elegance and rebellion.

The juxtaposition of strength and delicacy, fearlessness and gentleness echoes throughout the lineup – one loaded with attitude and restating Luisa Spagnoli’s primary goal of celebrating women with her Made in Italy fashion.

Statement outerwear is the fashion evidence of women’s strength. Strong-shouldered and wide-lapeled double overcoats, almost floor-sweeping, done in solids or bearing micro-sequins and leopard motifs are thrown over mini tulip frocks and pencil skirts with lateral high slits and impalpable see-through underpinnings.

Oversized shearlings and faux fur coats with giant collars are head-turning, throw-on-and-go options.

The statement coat is reworked into oversize peacoats and blazers, the latter part of wool crepe pantsuits with power shoulders and flared bottoms elongating the silhouette. Suede options are offered in tobacco brown and blue while a leather tuxedo number with grosgrain piping furthers the penchant of Luisa Spagnoli’s muses for dressing to the nines.

Counterpointing the neat and polished look, knitwear steals the spotlight for its tactile quality, best telegraphing Luisa Spagnoli’s know-how and craftsmanship.

Voluptuously and gently draped on the torso, merino knits boast cowl and boat necklines, sometimes plunging at the back, with balloon and bell sleeves adding a dramatic effect. Like erupting volcanos they feature maxi rhinestones dotted here and there for an eccentric and precious touch.

Similar drapes sculpting the body grace jersey cocktail dresses with skin-baring necklines. For special occasions Luisa Spagnoli’s women opt for intricately embroidered mermaid gowns with plunging necks crafted from lace, velvet and sequins, as well as Chantilly lace and sequined jumpsuits.

A playful touch is added by the season’s oversize knit puffers, extra-long and cocooning or cropped at the waist, some scattered with rhinestones.

At Luisa Spagnoli’s gem table, multifaceted stones are mounted on golden cuffs, cascade from pendant earrings, are nestled in hair grips and grace chunky rings scattered on every finger, adding a touch of opulence to each look.

Looks are accessorized with clutch bags in suede, leather and faux fur with leopard and astrakhan patterns, suede belts, and Mary Jane footwear, in suede and faux leopard, done in pump and knee-high boot versions.




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