Home ModeFashion Week TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist. SS23


by pascal iakovou
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Spring / Summer 2023 collection.


The dramatical changes impacting the social environment plays on repeat like a track of sameness, over and over again.  It can only go for so long until something bursts.  Until someone says “enough”. After a period of time dictated by closed-minded-passivity, that burst of ‘difference’ is in the form of Takahiro Miyashita’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection: GRAY.

GRAY is a bold and brave expression of what awaits us, when we dare to step away, from rinse and repeat.

It is not about perfection.  Instead, it’s about transitional, inaudible moments that comes from  self-release of stagnation.  The result is a collection featuring anoraks, rolled-up pants with a tuxedo stripe and quilted jackets with a distinct touch of Britishness.  With craftmanship and detail that are quintessential to Miyashita, select pieces create an illusion of being worn ‘inside out’ while others command a second take as you realize what you thought were pants are actually, sleek skirts.  Sweatshirts present themselves in the shape of extended tunics. The trompe-l’oeil technique emphasizes the gender ambiguity of key pieces. Its one of Miyashita’s expressions of liberation.

This theme continues with one of Miyashita’s greatest icons, Kurt Cobain, when he would don dresses in revolt to macho Americana.  Selected looks from that time have been painstakingly hand painted on to medical gowns.  For Miyashita, this period is seen as the beginning of genderless.  While the pieces feel haunting, Miyashita refers to them as « just making clothes ».  He is often critical of his own work which sees him stirring culture pointedly and with meaning. GRAY is another swipe.

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