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Sindiso Khumalo SS22

by pascal iakovou
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SS22 collection: JAGGER

 SINDISO KHUMALO 

South African designer Sindiso Khumalo returns to Milan official calendar to present her SS22 collection titled JAGGER 

South African fashion label, Sindiso Khumalo, which debuted in Milan calendar in September 2020, returns to Milan to present its Spring/Summer 2022 collection in a digital format within Milan Fashion Week’s official calendar. 

“Milan has really been the home I have grown with fashion, starting out at Milan Fashion Hub 4 years ago. It’s wonderful to return again, and to have the amazing opportunity to showcase the work we do in the city I love. I look forward to visiting soon” 

JAGGER – SINDISO KHUMALO SS22 COLLECTION 

On the 18 of April 2021, one of the most important libraries on the African continent was caught up in a mountain fire. The result was the library, burned to the ground and the loss of the University of Cape Town Jagger African Studies Library. 

As a tribute to the JAGGER library, SINDISO KHUMALO SS22 collection speaks to the treasures that were lost in the fire. The books, the maps, the political posters, the great archives of African literature, both modern and traditional. Khumalo uses this collection as a point of reflection upon the archives housed in the University of Cape Town’s African studies’ library and by extension upon the monolith that is African Scholarship. Appearing throughout the collection are political posters, novels, maps, book covers and many other visual and textual resources that were burned in the fire. All symbolising the languages of freedom expressed on the continent through literature and storytelling. Two-piece suiting and tailored outerwear are a dedication to the librarians who built its archives. Long time muse, Charlotte Maxeke, a revolutionary activist in South Africa’s history, is echoed into some pieces of the collection 

Looking at the mountain today, you will see bright yellow wild flowers growing next to the black ashen trunks. This is echoed in the collection featuring bright hand embroidery, pink hand woven suiting, and bold hand screen printed silks, handmade ceramic buttons, political illustra- tions by 

Illustrator Sinalo Ngcaba. Sustainable materials are also a feature across the collection, with recycled cotton and organic cotton blends from Khumalo’s collaboration with sustainable textile manufacturer Circular Systems. 

Long term collaborator Githan Coopoo, Cape Town based ceramic artist, is featured as the guest Art Director to the collection. 

JAGGER – SINDISO KHUMALO SS22 SHORT FILM 

Set in Cape Town and in Table Mountain where the fire began, the movie was directed by Haneem Christian and represent a homage to the library and the treasures that were lost in the fire. Books, maps, political posters, the great archives of African literature. The true damage of the fire is still unknown, but with time one hopes we will rebuild what was lost. In a time of undisrupted mourning, we take a moment contemplate what was lost. 

Film Credits

Director : Haneem Christian 

Director of Photography: Imran Christian, Camera Assistant: Peter Parker Michael 

Production Manager: Waseem Noordien Guest Art Director: Githan Coopoo, Styling: Githan Coopoo Model: Sikhokhele Tyhali Hair and Make Up: Inga Hewett Opera Singer: Lulama Mgceleza 

Brand & Designer Profile 

LVMH prize 2020 finalist, Sindiso Khumalo is a sus- tainable textile designer based in Cape Town, South Africa. Sindiso Khumalo studied architecture at the University of Cape Town prior to moving to London to work for British-Ghanian architect Sir David Adjaye, to then turn her interest to fashion gaining a MA at Central St. Martins in Textile Fu- tures. 

In 2014, she establishes her eponymous label with a passion to create modern sustainable clothing with an emphasis on African story telling. She took a hia- tus to have children and relaunched her in 2017. Over the years she has developed a uniquely colourful visual voice, which draws upon her heritage. 

Sustainability, craft and empowerment lie at the heart of the label. Inspired by her mother who was a political activist against the apartheid regime, Sindiso has been motivated to bring values of social justice and female empowerment into the brand. 

Her interests lie in the representations of black women from the turn of the 20th century up to the 1980’s, looking at the portraiture of that time. Each garment tells a story about Africa, women and female empowerment. With textiles and craft at the heart her collec- tions, she works closely with NGO’s and small workshops in South Africa and Burkina Faso in producing unique handwoven and hand embroidered textiles for her collections. Sindiso Khumalo has also spoken on sustainability at the United Nations and the European Development Forum, and work with various initiatives to help alleviate poverty in Africa. Cape Town based designer collaborates with local artisanal communities across South Africa and Burkina Faso to produce her collections and draws inspiration from her African heritage. Exploring ideas of home and heritage. 

“Every collection is an opportunity to speak about the Black African experience. Previous muses include women like Harriet Tubman, Charlotte Maxeke Sarah Forbes Bonneta. African histories and storytelling as a huge part of our research and story telling. As a brand we also believe the social and environmental side of the sustainability conversation are inextricably linked. And we try to address both in the work we do.” 

Winner of Vogue Italia “Whos on Next, Dubai” in 2015, the designer has presented her work at Milan Fashion Week with the support of CNMI at Milan Fashion Hub Market from 2017-2019. In 2019, the designer returned to Milan to join the Africa Now initiative with the renovated support of CNMI. 

Sindiso Khumalo was nominated as a finalist of the LVMH prize 2020 and was awarded 

2020 GCFA Best Independent Designer Award. 

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